Em2 Ecu
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Car started acting up, took it to Honda and they said it was ECU and 1k to replace it. Looking at doing it myself, search DIY's and forums and could not much information. Does anyone know where the ECU is located on a 2001 civic coupe, and are they hard to change out? Someone who is more adequate at searching forum or has instruction, do you mind posting and or reporting the DIY to change out an ECU. Thanks
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I don't know why people expect an online forum to do freakin' everything for them.
Go to your auto parts store and talk to them. They're real people, and you can see how much the part will cost (probably not cheap) and you can buy a Haynes service manual that will be 1000x more helpful than some DIY on the internet.
Go to your auto parts store and talk to them. They're real people, and you can see how much the part will cost (probably not cheap) and you can buy a Haynes service manual that will be 1000x more helpful than some DIY on the internet.
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There is no need to be rude or to act as if you had to post to this forum. If someone else has done it, who doesn't do it for a living, they could alert me of problems that I might not foresee, and or someone could have written a DIY about it. If no one asked questions, posted DIYS, etc what would be the purpose of this website. If it is so draining for you to reply, just don't. Very Simple, just as your simple explanation.
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"pinoyjdmr" Thank you for you reply and your help on the location of the ECU. I went to the junk yard and they priced one for $100-$150. I am going to do a DIY on how to replace one if anyone in the future has any questions or need assistance on replacing theirs. After all, that is one of the general purposes of this site.
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The ECU will need to be set up to read the keys. The honda dealer can do that. Also make sure you are getting the right ECU. I dont know what your trim of your car is but dont get a DX/LX ecu for an EX motor.
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Thanks everyone for all your help and input especially "tfnaaf" for your diagram. I hope I can just take the ECU and my key up to Honda and they will flash it over for me. Thanks for bringing that point up "ronaldo9". I am awaiting Honda to get back with me with the final verdict and let me know exactly what the problem is.
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There is no need to be rude or to act as if you had to post to this forum. If someone else has done it, who doesn't do it for a living, they could alert me of problems that I might not foresee, and or someone could have written a DIY about it. If no one asked questions, posted DIYS, etc what would be the purpose of this website. If it is so draining for you to reply, just don't. Very Simple, just as your simple explanation.
Now, if you'd asked something more specific, like, "I'm thinking about replacing my ECU, what tips can anyone give me that a service manual won't?" or something to that effect, then I'd say your reply was justified. However, with the question you asked, you fell into that ever-broadening category of people that want everything handed to them on a platter. Now, forgive me if I read your post wrong, but for future reference, you may want to be a tad more specific.
Just for reference, a new ECU from Honda is going to run you anywhere from $440 to $670. I'm assuming you're talking about the Engine Control Module, ref#4 in this diagram:
Don't be hatin'. Guys our age have to stick together.
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Well I appreciate you help. But I clearly state in the initial post that i was "ECU and 1k to replace it. Looking at doing it myself, search DIY's and forums and could not much information. Does anyone know where the ECU is located on a 2001 civic coupe, and are they hard to change out?" Nevertheless, I appreciate the information, and due to the warning about the keys my car will not have to be towed to Honda, I am just going to change it out in their parking lot.
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Thats a good idea just make sure you have a ride home incase they can't do it right away. Should save you the $1k in labour they would charge you otherwise.
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If you're going to be doing it that way, I'd make damn sure you know exactly what you're doing. Not in a garage, there's a hell of a lot more things that could go wrong. I'd go buy a Haynes manual and make sure you know exactly what tools you'll use and what you could possibly need, and what order you'll be doing things in.
From a Haynes manual:
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery
2. Disable the Airbag system (essentially making sure the wheel is pointed straight ahead, and waiting three minutes for the reserve power supply to empty out.)
3. Remove the passenger's lower dashboard cover.
4. Cut off and unbolt the section of plastic that covers up the glove box frame. The manufacturer leaves this piece of plastic in place when the dash is assembled, but it's not structural.
5. Unbolt the glove-box frame and detach the relays from it, and remove it.
6. Disconnect the big electrical connector from the PCM (The vertical computer-looking thing, what you're replacing) and remove the mounting bolts. (Word of warning: make sure you ground yourself before touching the PCM by touching the chassis, and don't take the new PCM out of its bag until you need it.)
7. Installation is reverse of removal.
8. Perform Idle relearn procedure:
a) Make sure all electrical systems are [I]OFF./I]
b) Start the engine, and bring it up to about 3000 rpm with no load until the fan comes on.
c) Close the throttle, and allow the engine to idle for 5 minutes with no load, mechanical, electrical, or otherwise. If the radiator fan comes on during this procedure, don't count it towards the 5 minutes.
That should be it. I'd make sure you've got EVERYTHING you could possibly need, I'd imagine the dealership will frown upon you if you ask their service department if you can borrow a wrench. Kind of rubbing it in their face that you're not going to pay them insane amounts of money for a simple procedure.
Oh, and I'd highly recommend buying a brand-new OEM PCM. That's not something I'd skimp on. Could cost you lots of issues down the road.
From a Haynes manual:
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery
2. Disable the Airbag system (essentially making sure the wheel is pointed straight ahead, and waiting three minutes for the reserve power supply to empty out.)
3. Remove the passenger's lower dashboard cover.
4. Cut off and unbolt the section of plastic that covers up the glove box frame. The manufacturer leaves this piece of plastic in place when the dash is assembled, but it's not structural.
5. Unbolt the glove-box frame and detach the relays from it, and remove it.
6. Disconnect the big electrical connector from the PCM (The vertical computer-looking thing, what you're replacing) and remove the mounting bolts. (Word of warning: make sure you ground yourself before touching the PCM by touching the chassis, and don't take the new PCM out of its bag until you need it.)
7. Installation is reverse of removal.
8. Perform Idle relearn procedure:
a) Make sure all electrical systems are [I]OFF./I]
b) Start the engine, and bring it up to about 3000 rpm with no load until the fan comes on.
c) Close the throttle, and allow the engine to idle for 5 minutes with no load, mechanical, electrical, or otherwise. If the radiator fan comes on during this procedure, don't count it towards the 5 minutes.
That should be it. I'd make sure you've got EVERYTHING you could possibly need, I'd imagine the dealership will frown upon you if you ask their service department if you can borrow a wrench. Kind of rubbing it in their face that you're not going to pay them insane amounts of money for a simple procedure.
Oh, and I'd highly recommend buying a brand-new OEM PCM. That's not something I'd skimp on. Could cost you lots of issues down the road.
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man, those are some pretty detailed instructions, haha.
this is my version.
1. unplug old ECU
2. plug in new ECU
3. be happy
although i think i probably have a bit more room than you behind the glove box now that everything is pushed out of the way since i have a PRB ecu.
this is my version.
1. unplug old ECU
2. plug in new ECU
3. be happy
although i think i probably have a bit more room than you behind the glove box now that everything is pushed out of the way since i have a PRB ecu.
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