Cleft_Asunder

iTrader: (1)

I wonder if the stock head gasket wasn't designed for higher octane fuel for prolonged use. Maybe it's like shooting ++P ammo through your handgun all the time.

Cleft_Asunder

iTrader: (1)

Good post but I'm not currently convinced that ECU reset is something that should be done unless you want to clear a code. Why? Because car is ALWAYS learning how to drive and adjusts to it almost instantly. For example, let's say you do an ECU reset, let it idle for 10, then take it out on the road to push it hard so that the ECU learns the more aggresive driving habbit. Well, okay, it will work but once you take it out again and push it slow, it will adopt that habbit. You can't lock it into a habbit, AND there is no difference between doing an ECU reset + relearn to simply doing a relearn without the ECU reset. The result is exactly the same.

And given this, I don't see the point about the driving habbit ECU feature. To me it's a sham. Why do I have to constantly train my car to do something? Would you like it if you had to teach your dog the same trick over again? Well that's what you're doing with your civic throughout the life of the car. Driving habbit feature results in the car being in a constant state of non-preperation. For example, let's say you drive your car soft for fuel economy. The ECU, after 1 trip of this, learns this and becomes sluggish. Acceleration becomes poor and it's just not peppy. But lets say you change your mind and want the car to be peppy again. Well, you're SOL because the car has to learn that. So realistically speaking you could be in a life/death situation where POWER is needed, and you can't produce that because the car is in slug mode. Get it?

I can't think of one good reason for driving habbit learning. Fuel economy related to pedal pressure over-sensitivity you say? Absurd! You have to be a real knuckle-head to not be able to drive your car economically. The Civic should be set to "x" setting, that means no car performance fluctuation. That in itself is an UPGRADE because it allows power on demand. The 1st gen Saturn S's are an example of no (or VERY light) ecu learning, and that car drives the same every time you get in it. If you want to drive economic, if you want speed you get speed and instantly.

Sham.

Krieger

that's fine if u believe so...

but u just said it learns things itself over time... ok, so let's say it's learned to deal with that dirty air filter, a clogged IACV and some super crappy old oil... it isn't gonna run optimally when u clean her up and let her breath and cool better... so why not let her learn the best way to learn her new environment?

its all up to a personal oppinion. I, personally agree with the Honda Techs on this issue... i talk to alot of them and each has said this is a great habit, its just time consuming and alot of people dont care.

give it a try. cant hurt.

Cleft_Asunder

iTrader: (1)

Give what a try? Did you even comprehend my post? Obviously not. Things like air filter and fuel filter are beside my original points. I was talking about the ECU relearn (negative cable unplugged, foot on brake for 15 seconds, then reinstall cable. Let idle for 10 minutes). That in itself is bollocks. There's no point to having your car waste gas for 10 minutes because there's nothing significant about the ECU state after the unplug, other than it clears your previous driving habbit and any codes. And you're ALWAYS clearing your previous driving habbit within a ~10 minute delay unless your driving habbit remains the same, at which point there's nothing to clear. You get it?

The second part that's bollocks is the driving habbit ECU memory, which is the ~10 minute delay. I'm not saying it IS 10 minutes for the ECU to relearn because it's an odd system. For example, it can be done in a few seconds. The main point is this: If you need power NOW, there is still a delay of a few seconds. The ECU acts as a gatekeeper and it has to approve your new driving habbit. That could mean life and death when power is needed at an exact moment. Instead of a car that is locked into 100% power access and which drives the way you want it to when you want it to, you've got a car that is delaying you just like employees at the airport that have to check your ticket. You are the ECU's bitch, and not vice-versa. The ECU picks up your economic driving habbit and the car drives like it's using 70% engine power. Amazing!

It's like having a retarded computer voice in the car asking you questions: "Hey, I noticed you have started driving more aggresively, let me just go ahead and approve that. It will take me just a moment." Instead, you could have a car like EVERY car before driving habbit learning was invented, and you can drive it slow for economy, and when you want speed you don't have to whip the ECU into complying to your new aggresive demands. Do you understand the absurdity of the system yet? What an appropriate car "feature" for the fascist state we live in! Now that I think about it, I wouldn't be surprised if the primary objective of the system is to train the population to be submissiveness and complacent, rather than domineering. It's the little living organisms that make up the big human body. A little money here, a little money there and next your wallet is empty. Surely in the book 1984, the population were driving cars with driving habbit memory. ^_^

Honda techs, what do they gotta say about this?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

it is not okay to reset the ecu that much, in fact you should try and avoid it as much as possible. reason being, it does take time for the learn procedures, and during that time you are getting **** poor gas mileage. in fact if you reset the ecu and get a smog check before driving thru a full tank of gas, you are likely to fail because many of the fuel trims and parameters have not been established. basically the car runs in stupid mode every time you reset it. btw, the first 10 mins of idle is to set the IDLE SPEED, nothing else. when i eventually get my engine swap, stock ecu is getting thrown in the trash.

Krieger

. Im putting that out for everyone...

and its not just the fact that going slower and **** will save gas, its when u CLEAN IT, the engine will run better and thus, u CAN let ur ECU relearn to operate the BEST it can with it's new settings.

im not saying every time u change ur freaking oil, unplug her, but every time u clean ur air filter, or do something that will let her run better, think about doing it.

and if ur honestly worried about how much gas is used by a 4 cylinder engine uses when idling at 700 RPM, then u must NEVER mow ur grass for fear of the economic repercussions. lol

The way my Honda tech buddies, and even the guy who OWN tuning shops, put it is, yes ur ECU is always learning, but when its a drastic change, it won't be as good as if u just let it relearn it all from the get-go...

and it isn't "adapting" to driving slow or driving fast... that for one goes against what u keep railing about: that it is always learning... and that wouldnt make any sense ANYWAYS because that would mean any dumbass with a Viper, Lambo, BMW, Skyline, Supra, anything MADE to go fast, would be stuck in the slow lane BECAUSE their ECU "learned" to go slow cuz u always go the speed limit...

go google it, and then try relearning ur ECU, drive it around for a tank or two, THEN come and tell me it's a sham.

i just reset it every 6 months to a year because that's when i choose to... and i have YET to get less than 400 miles to a tank, since i started...

Cleft_Asunder

iTrader: (1)

Okay but can we get better ECU's for our cars without that feature?

Krieger

btw, this is my personal method of doing things... i never said you NEED to do it...


and sure, going crazy and resetting it every few months would be retarded, but if i driver over 20,000 miles a year, in a DIRTY *** city, in stop and go traffic... and i choose to clean her out and start it all over, why can't i?

Krieger

what feature? the idle relearn?

Cleft_Asunder

iTrader: (1)

I know my car drives very well. I used to have a 98 civic auto that drove the exact same way as the manual. Before I got this car, I thought the ECU driving habbit memory wouldn't be on the 5-speed manual. I thought that the car would be in a constant 100% power mode without fluctuation. But back to the auto, it's TERRIBLE for the transmission. If I drove the car aggresively which put it to 100% engine power, the transimission would shift as smooth as silk. But when I drove it soft like I wanted it to for economy and because I don't like to beat on my car, then the trany would shift ruff. My friends 97 accord behaved exactly the same. I thought I had trany issues but it's the ECU memory taking the car to ~70% power which the auto-trans wasn't designed for.

I know exactly how the ECU handles things in terms of feel, but you'll have to excuse me for my made-up nomenclature. It works something like this: Every 10 minutes it seems to apply a hard memory imprint. So let's just assume you've got economy on there, so your car feels like it's driving at 70-80 percent power. That does not mean that you have to face a 10 minute delay to get her back up to 100% power again. The ECU has a soft memory imprint which allows it to move into power setting with only a few seconds of delay. Specifically, you press on the gas and you go from 70, 80, 90, 100% power within a few seconds, but the significant point is that there is still a few seconds of "the gatekeeper checking your ticket." During this few-seconds burst of power, the hard memory imprint of 10 minutes isn't erased.

You think a Viper has the same ECU behavior as a civic? Come on.

And my main point isn't about economy, it's about safety and also driving enjoyment, and now the transmission issue particularly with the auto. ECU driving habbit relearn IS dangerous.

Cleft_Asunder

iTrader: (1)

Well by idle relearn I mean the unplug, not the ECU driving memory adaption. I want an ECU without memory adaption, which I guess means that idle relearn is not necessary since there is no computer to learn anything.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

get AEM EMS, tune it once on the dyno and it will NEVER change settings again if you can afford it lol. i agree about the memory thing, its very annoying. the brakes do it too. if i brake softly all the time, and then make a few hard stops, they feel like suck. but after a few harder brake stops, eventually something "clicks" and i have awesome brakes. same goes for acceleration. and if you think our older cars have it bad, you should drive an 8thgen with drive by wire throttle (no cable). i think you might throw up after driving it and feeling how terrible it is to have few seconds of delay when you stomp the gas. i would go nuts driving that car. and by delay i mean that you press the gas down and for few seconds, NOTHING happens. then the car finally starts moving.

Cleft_Asunder

iTrader: (1)

THANK YOU! Sometimes I feel like I'm insane, yet at the same time I know that I'm talking sense.

No I can't afford it lol. Maybe I can find one at the junk yard that someone added...

8th gen, I can believe it. Everything is moving to a state of 1984, I swear it is. In the UK, they are already there. It's just like Orwell said, but worse. It's about 80-90% complete, but once the microchip is introduced... oh ****.

Protan988

K&N air filter and make sure it stays clean. Engine breathes easier. Driving a standard will improve mileage slightly. Then just the real simple things. High rpm = more gas. Coast as much as possible. Keep speed down on the highway. I think 90km/h is when you get the best fuel efficency out of the vehicle. Stay on track with oil changes dont go overdue. Another thing which I am a big fan of is Synthetic oi.. It is more expensive but it will last twice as long as conventional oil so you actually save money. Also it will improve your gas mileage (nothing dramatically huge) and it protects your engine better.

Krieger

lol, what the hell is that web site in ur sig?

also, you learn something every day. i think ill try to keep my ECU as-is, but its kinda hard when i unplug my battery every once in a while to work on my audio and stuff.

Cleft_Asunder

iTrader: (1)

K&N filter decreases mileage for increased HP gain. More air = more gas thrown into engine = higher horsepower = more fuel consumption. At least from what I know.

I agree with Gearbox on the synthetic oil. Syn oil doesn't stick to metal for very long compared to conventional. Therefore, every morning you are starting the car almost dry. Conventional is much cheaper too. And you don't want to switch between the two. From what I understand, once you use synthetic you can't go back to conventional, and vise versa.

Cleft_Asunder

iTrader: (1)

Well who can afford to change it? It's like 1500 for an AEM ECU kit. I would do it if it was like 50 bucks lol.

It's a website that deals with what's really going on behind the facade.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

K&N filters are garbage, so is synthetic oil. true story. in fact AEM already realized a few years ago that cotton gauze filters were trash, and threw them all out (yes, their ENTIRE supply of filters). they only sell dryflow synthetic paper filter now with their intakes which filters above oem spec at 99.9%. can you guess what K&N filters at? yeah only 92% not good enough.

Krieger

ya, K&N doesnt filter ****... like,I bought my friend one for his civic and it was in there for 2 years solid, daily driving, and went for almost 30k miles... i looked at it to see if i should clean it yet K&N says 50k)... it had almost NOTHING in the filter, except some bugs... sounds nice... but even the pipe has dirt residue and dust in it...

anyone know what size inlet i should order when i get an AEM dry flow one? i havnt measured it yet, but im thinking 2.5''.

2005EM2

iTrader: (7)

Factual information that actual make sense...steering away from the damned mainstream media and their biased views.

I hate Joe Biden!! Joe Biden’s New World Order Speech (kind of off-topic.. I know)

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

most likely, but measure it to be sure. you should also get the special cleaning kit for the dryflow. i use a weapon-r SW1 oiled foam filter and it gets so dirty im forced to clean it every 6 months or so. intake pipe is totally clean not a spec of dust. when i had K&N, the whole pipe had a film of dust, my idle air valve was messed, and i think its the reason why i had to buy a new vtec solenoid. the oil filter screen was clogged with sand, and even after i cleaned it out it was never the same.

Krieger

how often do you guys change ur o2 sensors? alot of people say changing it every 50k miles makes a big difference. opinions?

Running Riot

I have a B20VTEC in my EJ8 and I scored 42mpg on my drive to VA aaaaaaaaand i was doing about 70 the whole way and I was spinning 4k at 70mph on my tranny set up. I know some people are gonna call bullshit on this but hear me out.

The airbags are removed, not much weight but its weight that is no longer there, 7.5lb flywheel, a/c and p/s pulleys, skunk2 intake manifold with 70.2 mm tb intake header exhaust and cat removed. I'm using GSR fat fives with nitrogen filled Michelin PE2s, the ac compressor was removed because of the swap and I hadn't found a replacement at the time, needless to say the ac was off, the windows were up. It was in the fall so the temp was around 50 or 60. Raining for some of the time. I was also using FFG caps too that could have helped.

I think the entire airbag unit brain both bags dropped 40 or so pounds? The Flywheel dropped 14 or so pounds and the pulleys didnt drop **** i think, but i think most of the increase came from the FFG caps and the increased pumping efficiency from freeing up the intake and exhaust. Maybe the cat coming off?

Krieger

ya, i beleive it.

weight is a huge factor when driving.

****, after my buddy and I installed his 4 12'' subs, 2 10''s and a custom sound system with like 12 freaking speakers and a ton of TVs in his car (and the batteries to run em. lol) he has **** mileage. thats like an extra 200 or 300 ponds! lol



bitchin system tho... lol

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

i changed my 02 sensors at 80k miles, when the engine light came on. otherwise, its working fine. no need to change it early if it still does the job.

Running Riot

i took the bulb out of my CEL i got tired of seeing it ill have to check my codes sometime. I gotta take the SRS light bulb out too cuz it's starting to **** me off.

pablok2

man, talk about civicholics.

Protan988

Not true at all. More hp doesnt mean more gas. Now your engine has a bit more power that means it moves the car easier then how it did before. Therefore better mileage. Conventional is cheaper but synthetic lasts twice as long, so it evens out. And thats not true about switching from to or synthetic either. I work at an oil shop people do it all the time. Almost every car that is manufactured first oil would be conventional anyways. So if that was the case then you wouldn't ever be able to use synthetic unless it came stock in the vehicle.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

more hp = more air and more fuel. fact. if you have a filter that brings more air in the engine, then the ecu will inject more fuel to get the correct ratio. same reason why in winter the car feels more powerful, but your gas mileage sucks due to all the dense air coming in and the extra fuel being burnt. in summer, air is less dense and therefore less fuel is injected, and the car feels slower. conventional oil with LC20 easily lasts 10k with lab tests to prove it. but oil filters i know of never last more than 6k miles.

Running Riot

i usually get better mileage when its cold because cold air is denser. Allowing the engine to inhale easier would increase pumping efficiency same as an exhaust would wouldn't it? Changing a K&N filter would only increase your mileage per gallon if your previous filter was dirty as hell. Those panel filters won't do much to improve mpg but an open element cold air/ram air system would because of a colder and more efficient draw. Colder air requires less fuel to burn. i could be wrong but thats how i understand thermodynamics...