saugashan

iTrader: (3)

can i paint my LX side mirrors the colour of my car so it looks like an Si/Ex, its black plastic right now i guess, so how would i go about painting it prime, and then paint

also im getting a lip will i have to prime/paint that too

im gonna do it myself so please help

ajhdragon

iTrader: (5)

really the only advice is if you use 2 stage spray light coats of paint and then go kind of heavy on the clear. then sand with 2000 and buff. or if your useing single stage, paint it kind of heavy and sand with 2000 and buff. and keep a steady hand.

dirtySAMURAI

iTrader: (31)

definitely make sure you prep the surface correctly, paint thin if using conventional 2 or 3(?) stage paint process, paint thicker if using single stage. then after you paint it and let the paint/clear dry, take a PC to it and buff/cut/polish the thing like crazy.

saugashan

iTrader: (3)

would it be cheaper to get it done cuz i dun wtf all this stage 2 stuff is

Nodnero

iTrader: (8)

For you, YES. Since it sounds like you are kinda confused, you might not wanna try it if you are fearfull of what they are talking about.

ragingSPAM

iTrader: (8)

2 stage is a basecoat than clearcoat system where u spray a basecoat of paint than once it flash dries (where it looks like it isnt wet) than u spray on clearcoat after u got the desired ammount of paint on what your painting...dont use rattle cans not enough psi...it'll come out like ****...if u have access to a paint booth and spray gun use thise...get the paint from any auto paint shop than get some clear coat...get the paint...reduce it than spray about 3-4 coats...u dont need to prime it cuz its plastic all u need to do to prep it is clean it really well after sanding it with 600 grit wet sandpaper untill it has no shine than clean it than use bulldog adhesion promotor or anyother adhesion promotors after its been degreased with wax and grease remover...than paint than clear

R1Style

iTrader: (20)

If you don't even know how to begin painting, I wouldn't bother doing it on your own. Not trying to be a d!ck but save yourself the headache and get a shop to paint those pieces for you. It'll turn out 100000x better this way.

dj02

iTrader: (8)

take it to a shop. unless your going to paint them with a paint gun, your not going to like the end result.

ajhdragon

iTrader: (5)

if you are goign to paitn with a gun go on about 40psi, and make sure your spray is wide enough to keep from gettin lines.

Whelan

Get some 600 grit wetsand, scuff it up and paint. Just keep adding light coats till its covered and the desired color. Surface should be sticky before applying next coat. After it dries get the clear coat (Rustoleum makes a good one) and spray on 2-3 coats. Let it dry for over a day, wait 3 weeks to buff and your done.

ragingSPAM

iTrader: (8)

why is everyone repeating what i said...also rattle cans suck *****...cant get a proper paint job with it

ajhdragon

iTrader: (5)

^^^wtf rustoleum? no go to a paint shop or something and get the type of clear coat(along with the hardner/reducer) that goes with your paint. Probably an acryllic. let it dry for about 3 days then you can sand and buff. and 600 might be too heavy if your not sure on how to sand proberly. if youve never done it before don't go hevier than 1200 maybe 1000 and be sure to go in a circular motion to get the best results. and after about a month you can wax.

ragingSPAM

iTrader: (8)

dont do circular motions...just go back and forth...if u do circular motions u can get swirl marks...not good...also the clearcoat he's talking about are brands like omni (cheap stuff) or u can go with sickens, standox, house of kolor, dupont...those i recommend...600 grit will work all u gotta use is a foam pad and lots of water...if u go any finer its hard to get the paint to stick without adhesion promotor...also u dont have to wait 3 days u can do it the next day to color sand an polish...but hey atleast someone else knows something about autobody other than me...but i have hands and experience...dunno about anyone else

ajhdragon

iTrader: (5)

sorry, yes 600 is fine for before paint im saying for the final wet sand after you paint use a finer grit. thats from my experience. but ragingSPAM seems to know his S*** alot more than me i jsut do it for my cars and my buddies im by far not a pro.

ragingSPAM

iTrader: (8)

yea 1000-1500 for final color sand and polish...if u apply a lot of clearcoat than u can sand and buff the **** out of it and have a glass finish on ur mirrors...but whats the point of having shinny mirrors when the rest of ur car is normal...lol

Whelan

I wont be using a fine paper for the finish on my mirrors, Ill wait a few weeks and then compound/buff it. But my buddy did use the Rustoleum clear coat on his girls front grille and the job matched 100% He used some other stuff but it left a milky white coloring.

saugashan

iTrader: (3)

ok so this si wat im gonna do

1. sand the b!tch off good and clean it up with ahesion promoter (where do i buy that)
2. spray 3- 4 coats (do i have to ait for each coat to dry or what)
3. clear coat it after it dries
and enjoy???

ajhdragon

iTrader: (5)

pretty much but you don't need the promoter if if you sand with 400-600 then prime it. then spray it let it flash dry(about 45 minutes until almost dry) then clear after dry. then color sand and buff and enjoy.

saugashan

iTrader: (3)

wats color sand and buff?

ragingSPAM

iTrader: (8)

u can get adhesion promoter here
http://www.levineautoparts.com/buladprom.html

u dont clean it with adhesion promoter...after u sand, wash it with soap water...than use wax and grease remover which u can get at any autoparts store and i think u can get the adhesion promoter there too...just dont sand too much and make sure the plastic is not glossy...it is not 100 necessary to use the promoter but it helps A LOT and it insures that the paint will stick...after u spray one coat of paint wait till it flash dries which means when it doesnt look wet...but ur gonna need to have it hanging somewhere u can get the bottom of it and the sides...than after the first coat of paint looks like it has no more wet spots spray another coat...than do the same...after that use clear coat...

color sanding is when u get 1000-1500 grit sand paper to take out any runs or orange peel (clearcoat looks like orange peel) out of the clearcoat than and u lightly sand wetsand out the run or orange peel than u get a buffer with a polishing compound to take care of the rest...when ur buffing be careful not to over do it in a single spot cuz u can strip paint right off the surface