Truth about performance crank pulleys
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Rep Power: 787 Truth about performance crank pulleys
Recently there has been alot of controversy about replacing the stock crank pulley with one that is lighter, smaller, or both. I've decided to compile a list or my research so that other people with questions will have a head start on deciding whether to get one or not.
Some say that lightened crank pulleys are perfectly safe and don't cause any harm. Others have reported numerous problems with their use, including a blown motor. So here is the info. You can decide for yourself after reading it.
The first summary comes from a parts distributor that sells performance parts. They do not have their own line of products, so their opinion is pretty neutral. Below that are testimonials from various forums around the net.
Quote from http://www.machv.com/tip11cranpul.html
Some say that lightened crank pulleys are perfectly safe and don't cause any harm. Others have reported numerous problems with their use, including a blown motor. So here is the info. You can decide for yourself after reading it.
The first summary comes from a parts distributor that sells performance parts. They do not have their own line of products, so their opinion is pretty neutral. Below that are testimonials from various forums around the net.
Quote from http://www.machv.com/tip11cranpul.html
We've had lots of questions about crank pulleys lately, so here's all we know.
First, the crank pulley is the main pulley on the end of the crank (duh) that drives the accessories -- alternator, water pump, and air conditioning compressor.
An "underdrive" crank pulley is a pulley with a smaller diameter. The result is that it drives the accessories more slowly, and with greater mechanical leverage. It's like pedaling a bicycle up a hill with the smallest sprocket engaged on the crank. The goal of the underdrive pulley is to reduce drag from the accessories on the motor. Of course, if the accessories are turning more slowly, they will also be that much less effective, but life is all about compromises.
Does an underdrive pulley really add horsepower? The pulley manufacturers say they do, and we've seen tests in magazines that seemed to indicate signficant gains. But you could get the same sort of gains during a drag race WITHOUT an underdrive pulley by removing the belt from your alternator. (The motor can run solely off the battery for a short time.)
The other benefit of aftermarket pulleys is to reduce rotating mass. Here the simple aluminum crank pulley has a big advantage over the heavy stock pulley, but there's a reason it's so much lighter: It's missing the harmonic dampener. The reduction in rotating mass may be worth a couple of horsepower. But removing the dampener seems like a bad idea to us.
The factory crank pulley has a built-in harmonic dampener, in the form of a split design, with a thick rubber pad sandwiched between two steel sheels. The dampener is designed to absorb torsional and vertical vibrations from the crank. MOST underdrive crank pulleys (with the exception of the Buschur Racing model) do not have a harmonic dampener at all.
Torsional vibration is a twisting vibration caused by the pulses of each combustion event. The force of the piston causes the crank to deflect ever so slightly in the direction of the force, and when that force goes away the crank ever-so-slightly springs back. At certain frequencies the crank can resonate, making the vibration much worse. This is where the harmonic dampener comes into play.
Although many DSM owners have removed the harmonic dampener crank pulley without incident, doing so almost certainly increases crank bearing wear, and COULD lead to early failure of the crank or crank bearings. Just how much the life of these parts is shortened is unknown.
We do have one piece of first-hand experience, to offer, though. We know of ONE instance of crank failure on the 4G63 motor. It was a 2.3-liter motor that belong to an employee of ours. The crank cracked in two -- the only time we have ever seen this happen. That block had an undampened crank pulley on it.
On a race motor, increased risk of bearing or crank problems is insignficant next to the risk of, say, detonation in the cylinder that could blow up the motor. So for a race block, we heartily endorse lightweight undampened crank pulleys.
But for a street-driven car, one that you might want to last a couple of hundred thousand miles, we do not recommend using a pulley without a harmonic dampener.
One last note: The rubber in the OEM crank pulley gets old and weak over time, and it's not uncommon on high-mileage motors to see the crank pulley completely come apart. This can be a serious problem if the accessory belts wind their way into the timing belt area. The moral of the story: Inspect your crank pulley the next time you're working on the car, and replace it if it shows any signs of looseness or wobbling.
First, the crank pulley is the main pulley on the end of the crank (duh) that drives the accessories -- alternator, water pump, and air conditioning compressor.
An "underdrive" crank pulley is a pulley with a smaller diameter. The result is that it drives the accessories more slowly, and with greater mechanical leverage. It's like pedaling a bicycle up a hill with the smallest sprocket engaged on the crank. The goal of the underdrive pulley is to reduce drag from the accessories on the motor. Of course, if the accessories are turning more slowly, they will also be that much less effective, but life is all about compromises.
Does an underdrive pulley really add horsepower? The pulley manufacturers say they do, and we've seen tests in magazines that seemed to indicate signficant gains. But you could get the same sort of gains during a drag race WITHOUT an underdrive pulley by removing the belt from your alternator. (The motor can run solely off the battery for a short time.)
The other benefit of aftermarket pulleys is to reduce rotating mass. Here the simple aluminum crank pulley has a big advantage over the heavy stock pulley, but there's a reason it's so much lighter: It's missing the harmonic dampener. The reduction in rotating mass may be worth a couple of horsepower. But removing the dampener seems like a bad idea to us.
The factory crank pulley has a built-in harmonic dampener, in the form of a split design, with a thick rubber pad sandwiched between two steel sheels. The dampener is designed to absorb torsional and vertical vibrations from the crank. MOST underdrive crank pulleys (with the exception of the Buschur Racing model) do not have a harmonic dampener at all.
Torsional vibration is a twisting vibration caused by the pulses of each combustion event. The force of the piston causes the crank to deflect ever so slightly in the direction of the force, and when that force goes away the crank ever-so-slightly springs back. At certain frequencies the crank can resonate, making the vibration much worse. This is where the harmonic dampener comes into play.
Although many DSM owners have removed the harmonic dampener crank pulley without incident, doing so almost certainly increases crank bearing wear, and COULD lead to early failure of the crank or crank bearings. Just how much the life of these parts is shortened is unknown.
We do have one piece of first-hand experience, to offer, though. We know of ONE instance of crank failure on the 4G63 motor. It was a 2.3-liter motor that belong to an employee of ours. The crank cracked in two -- the only time we have ever seen this happen. That block had an undampened crank pulley on it.
On a race motor, increased risk of bearing or crank problems is insignficant next to the risk of, say, detonation in the cylinder that could blow up the motor. So for a race block, we heartily endorse lightweight undampened crank pulleys.
But for a street-driven car, one that you might want to last a couple of hundred thousand miles, we do not recommend using a pulley without a harmonic dampener.
One last note: The rubber in the OEM crank pulley gets old and weak over time, and it's not uncommon on high-mileage motors to see the crank pulley completely come apart. This can be a serious problem if the accessory belts wind their way into the timing belt area. The moral of the story: Inspect your crank pulley the next time you're working on the car, and replace it if it shows any signs of looseness or wobbling.
I personally know five people that have ruined their main bearings after about 15K miles of non- OEM pulley use. Main bearings on Hondas don't normally fail; it's usually something else. Two main causes of bearing failure are lack of oil and excessive vibration. Since the bearings didn't spin, lack of oil can be ruled out, and since all five cars had underdrive pulleys, and all five failed right around 15K miles after the install of the pulley, through process of elimination, I've decided that the underdrive pulleys were at fault.
I live in vegas, where it gets hot, I installed it myself, just the crank pulley and it was a pita!!!
immediately I noticed major a/c cooling loss...to much underdriving for me. performance wise, well it does pick up quicker, mid-high end power has improved, over all I don't think it was worth the price and trouble installing it. Considering sticking my stock pulley back on. This underdriving of 15% is not true, its more like 50% They state the performance is from weight reduction, then why not offer them the same size as stock made out of aluminum???
All in all, its a racing pulley, if your racing get it, if not don't waste your time under driving everything...
my .02
immediately I noticed major a/c cooling loss...to much underdriving for me. performance wise, well it does pick up quicker, mid-high end power has improved, over all I don't think it was worth the price and trouble installing it. Considering sticking my stock pulley back on. This underdriving of 15% is not true, its more like 50% They state the performance is from weight reduction, then why not offer them the same size as stock made out of aluminum???
All in all, its a racing pulley, if your racing get it, if not don't waste your time under driving everything...
my .02
If you look carefully at a Honda "pulley", you'll find that it's not a single piece of metal. Typically, there's a nodular iron or steel hub and another "ring" of iron or steel surrounding it containing the belt grooves. The two parts are joined by a rubber layer, which is highly compressed and sandwiched between them. Why rubber? If you notice, many four cylinder engines over the years have used counter rotating shafts to help make the engine "feel" smoother. Reciprocating internal combustion engines and especially in-line four cylinder versions, all produce shock pulses, which are very apparent to the occupants of the car. Every engine produces a shock pulse each time an individual cylinder fires. So, in the case of the four cylinder variety, there are four large individual pulses for each 720 degrees of crank rotation. Each time there's a pulse, it causes the internal components to do a rapid acceleration-deceleration event. When you consider the mass of all the internal components and visualize all these parts stopping and starting during their reciprocating and rotating motions, the additional stress "spikes" tend to make it all the more reason for one to wonder how any of it can work for any length of time. The harmonic balancer is made with the rubber coupling so that, when the individual "spikes" occur, the inner portion may move with the crank, but the rubber connected outer ring's mass helps prevent the hub and crank from going as far or as fast during the spikes or pulses. Remember that the outer part had considerable mass, so it tends to want to stay in motion at the speed that it's traveling and that's why it can prevent excessive harsh motion by the crank and other internal parts. To put it simply, the harmonic balancer is a shock absorber for the engine and thus prevents the individual pulses from destroying everything in the engine.
Make sure whatever pulley's you decide to use that they have some type of dampener.
Without a dampener the pulley may create excessive vibration in the crank causing damage to internals or oil pump failure.
This may happen even as a result of a lightweight pullet regardless of dampening.
I ran a lightweight OEM Civic Type R crank pulley on my Integra GSR block. (The GSR crank pulley is huge, and has slots for PS, AC, Alternator compared to the CTR Crank Pulley with just a slot for the alternator).
Even though the CTR Crank pulley is dampened, I still managed to shatter 2 oil pump gears!(which lead to spun bearings & blown turbo! ) I had no clue why. When I changed back to the stock GSR Crank Pulley, I never had the problem again.
Without a dampener the pulley may create excessive vibration in the crank causing damage to internals or oil pump failure.
This may happen even as a result of a lightweight pullet regardless of dampening.
I ran a lightweight OEM Civic Type R crank pulley on my Integra GSR block. (The GSR crank pulley is huge, and has slots for PS, AC, Alternator compared to the CTR Crank Pulley with just a slot for the alternator).
Even though the CTR Crank pulley is dampened, I still managed to shatter 2 oil pump gears!(which lead to spun bearings & blown turbo! ) I had no clue why. When I changed back to the stock GSR Crank Pulley, I never had the problem again.
I also do not believe that the weight of this pulley is really what provides the majority of the WHP increase, but the fact that it is actually under driving the accessories by 25%. I think a heavier pulley of the same diameter would show similar results on the dyno. My rough calculations for a 4 lb 6" disk to spin from 3K to 7K in 5 seconds, takes less than 1HP, so most of the gains are obviously not coming from the pulley weight reduction.
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Rep Power: 787 Basically a lightened pulley will underdrive all connected accessories, making them perform at a lower level than stock. The pulley itself may also cause engine damage and is usually only recommended to be used on a race motor and not a daily driver.
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Rep Power: 560 Originally posted by ponyman
Umm.....Thanks, but could you summarize...I don't really want to read all of that...
Umm.....Thanks, but could you summarize...I don't really want to read all of that...
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Rep Power: 350 Im going to cut my stock pulley in half tomorow.
OK?!
Ill end this discussion
Ive read that other pulles show the rubber...i see no rubber and will have to trust that its in a "metal shell"
wellll we will find out tomorow when i cut it in half.
holy crap
I found the rubber............................................ ..............just now when i was poking at it with a knife
OK?!
Ill end this discussion
Ive read that other pulles show the rubber...i see no rubber and will have to trust that its in a "metal shell"
wellll we will find out tomorow when i cut it in half.
holy crap
I found the rubber............................................ ..............just now when i was poking at it with a knife
Last edited by cdmx; 04-25-2004 at 02:23 AM.
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Rep Power: 0 good read even if I knew portions of that, each car reacts a lil differently, I thought that it being a softer metal if would absorb some of the vibrations and like said above by Gearbox, these hondas are made well and can normally take the difference but remember OEM stuff is made that way for a reason and made to last, so if we can't use these, what do we do with them? I waited forever for this stuff in good hopes and I still hope to hear more reinforcement from Josh, When is that dyno due on the power outputs on something like an EX?
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Rep Power: 0 You won't hear anything from Josh in any forum it seems. PM him or email him. Derek said he will most likely be banned sometime soon...I have heard enough from Josh to learn that he is full of ****...but if you want to hear more, PM or email him.
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Rep Power: 285 Originally posted by Ershall
You won't hear anything from Josh in any forum it seems. PM him or email him. Derek said he will most likely be banned sometime soon...I have heard enough from Josh to learn that he is full of ****...but if you want to hear more, PM or email him.
You won't hear anything from Josh in any forum it seems. PM him or email him. Derek said he will most likely be banned sometime soon...I have heard enough from Josh to learn that he is full of ****...but if you want to hear more, PM or email him.
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Rep Power: 350 He may own cool cars but his business practices aren't great by any means. Im basing that on how the company has treated customers on this site.
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Rep Power: 0 i talked to one of my good mechanic buddies....and he's been building race engines since he was 14....he said that like everyother factory thing that comes out of any dealership....it's always safety first blah blah blah....changing a crank pulley is just as dangerous as you changing race cam's or messing around with your v-afc (if you have one) that was his 2 cents....
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Rep Power: 787 So what do we all do with the pulley now that it's been proven as junk? That's almost $5000 everyone lost combined. I was really hoping for a refund. I guess we should all file a BBB complaint at least. When they see 30+ people sending in, they'll have to do something.
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Rep Power: 0 my friend said it should be safe to change it....but it all depends on the company and how well the people trust them....he said big brand names like hks and greddy etc have good reputation with everyone therefore people trust them..but smaller companies like DH, still has not proven their reputation worthy...it's all up to the buyer at this point...he also said don't jump to conclusion yet until you've actually tried to put it on...because a lot of people tend to follow others in what they say...
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Rep Power: 787 As an off topic, HKS is a big company. But they use their name to sell air filters that are some of the worst ever made. Their super flow foam filter traps maybe 75% of dirt.
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Rep Power: 0 wait wait wait...so pulleys are not good for daily driving cars but they are ok for racing cars? I was looking at those unorthodox ultra SS pulleys set, if i get those then it would be safe for me rite? Cuz i am a crazy driver sometimes...haha.
and another thing. on their website it said something like...this will will give u 8-15 hp gains. true?
and another thing. on their website it said something like...this will will give u 8-15 hp gains. true?
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Rep Power: 272 it wont give u hp... ur stock pulleys rob ur cars engine of power.. by making the pulley light weight and smaller it gives some of the power back to the engine... which is why some racers dont hace a/c or power steering cause they take it off.. there are 2 types of pulleys... acessory pulleys and crank pulleys... the crank pulley is bad for ur car like u read in earlier posts but the accesory pulley can be used for daily driven cause its an underdrive (smaller than stock) pulley and only is for ur power steering and alternator.. and i think a/c depending which kit u get.... aem makes em all except the crank cause they know it damages the engine.. the unorthodox makes a complete kit which has everything including the crank pulley... u can get that kit if you want just dont install the crank pulley and u'll be fine
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Rep Power: 0 Re: Truth about performance crank pulleys
thanks guys. I was about to buy one of these lightweight crank pulleys, but i decided to research it first. Luckily.
Screw the pulley, i like my car working.
Screw the pulley, i like my car working.