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I have a '97 Civic LX with only 65,000 miles that has never had the timing belt replaced. I am thinking that I better replace it due to its age. I just checked two local Honda dealers in the Toledo, Oh, area, and they want $525-$550 for the job. I have done a lot of work on my vehicles over the years, but have never changed a timing belt. I am wondering if anyone has experience doing this and can offer any suggestions. Due to the cost, it sounds like it might be a major job. Is this something I should tackle or should I just bite the bullet and let the dealer do it?
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I have a '97 Civic LX with only 65,000 miles that has never had the timing belt replaced. I am thinking that I better replace it due to its age. I just checked two local Honda dealers in the Toledo, Oh, area, and they want $525-$550 for the job. I have done a lot of work on my vehicles over the years, but have never changed a timing belt. I am wondering if anyone has experience doing this and can offer any suggestions. Due to the cost, it sounds like it might be a major job. Is this something I should tackle or should I just bite the bullet and let the dealer do it?
You don't replace a timing belt at 65k unless you really really like to replace timing belts or you like giving money to honda for no reason.
But assuming you were replacing it, you can follow my DIY in my sig. Except you don't need to take the bumper off. Leave the bumper on, take two 1/2 inch extentions for the 24" breaker bar, rest the breaker on a jack stand for support. I need to update my DIY because it's overly complicated. I will post a pic if you're interest.
Again, you don't need to replace it. It's due at 105k under severe conditions. You're wasting your time/money.
You don't replace a timing belt at 65k unless you really really like to replace timing belts or you like giving money to honda for no reason.
But assuming you were replacing it, you can follow my DIY in my sig. Except you don't need to take the bumper off. Leave the bumper on, take two 1/2 inch extentions for the 24" breaker bar, rest the breaker on a jack stand for support. I need to update my DIY because it's overly complicated. I will post a pic if you're interest.
Again, you don't need to replace it. It's due at 105k under severe conditions. You're wasting your time/money.
The reason I want to replace it (or have it replaced) is because of age, not mileage. The manual says to replace it at 105,000 miles or 84 months, and I am well beyond that. I expect the belt deteriorates over time just like tires and radiator hoses, whether you put a lot of miles on them or not.
Yes, I would be interested in any pics you could provide. Thanks.
I charge right at 450.00. Thats replacing the timming belt, water pump, cam and crank seals, and valve cover gasket. But yes they are right you realy dont need to change it. I tell all my customers 90k on a belt change.
Its pretty easy to do. only problem i see anyone having at home is getting the crank bolt to break loose. It can be a pain with out an impact and some of them wont do the trick.
I charge right at 450.00. Thats replacing the timming belt, water pump, cam and crank seals, and valve cover gasket. But yes they are right you realy dont need to change it. I tell all my customers 90k on a belt change.
Its pretty easy to do. only problem i see anyone having at home is getting the crank bolt to break loose. It can be a pain with out an impact and some of them wont do the trick.
Hey, remember having a big breaker bar isnt going to stop the engine from turning over. also remember to never turn it backwards. a half inch impact is your best bet, but with either tool, remember not to OVERTIGHTEN the crank bolt when you put it back on. i broke on once on a chevy aveo. my heart hit the floor. new crank time-and guess what's more cost effective than that-a new engine. so be careful. they can break.
LUCKY the bolt was soft enough that with a brand new set of snap on chisels we were able to make a line in the broken off bolt and turn it out. saved my job for sure. turns out the replacement bolt was only $1.55, and the local GM dealer had several, even though it's a korean car. that answers a couple questions right there lol.
if you've never done a timing belt before, as you've stated, you should hear several tips.
1. once you get the timing to top dead center, the timing marks are lined up, and you are in a position to take the belt off, use a white out brush to put a little dab on each of the timed components where they meet the seal or timing cover or something immediately next to it. this way you have a second, easy to read point of reference when checking timing.
2. disconnect the negative battery cable. to make sure it's absolutely not possible for the motor to turn over. both for your safety, and to make sure the pistons dont come slamming into the valves if the timing belt isnt together.
3. the crank to cam idler or cam(s) side of the belt should be the taught side of the belt. all slack should be on the tensioner stretch of the belt back to the crank. this is to ensure proper timing, and to make sure when you apply the tensioner it doesnt turn the cam(s) or crank back, out of time.
4. After applying the tensioner, confirming timing marks are still correct, turn the crank over 2 full times back to the timing mark and then confirm the cams are still lined up with their timing marks. do NOT just put it back together once the tensioner is applied without doing this.
5. if the timing belt has any timing lines or marks on it make sure they align correctly. if it has arrows on it, they should be facing out. I am about to do my first civic timing belt (i know everyone in the world has done them but me) so i dont know if they have either of these things, but i did a 96 camry v-6 today that had both lines and arrows. so just take a quick look.
Hey, remember having a big breaker bar isnt going to stop the engine from turning over. also remember to never turn it backwards. a half inch impact is your best bet, but with either tool, remember not to OVERTIGHTEN the crank bolt when you put it back on. i broke on once on a chevy aveo. my heart hit the floor. new crank time-and guess what's more cost effective than that-a new engine. so be careful. they can break.
LUCKY the bolt was soft enough that with a brand new set of snap on chisels we were able to make a line in the broken off bolt and turn it out. saved my job for sure. turns out the replacement bolt was only $1.55, and the local GM dealer had several, even though it's a korean car. that answers a couple questions right there lol.
if you've never done a timing belt before, as you've stated, you should hear several tips.
1. once you get the timing to top dead center, the timing marks are lined up, and you are in a position to take the belt off, use a white out brush to put a little dab on each of the timed components where they meet the seal or timing cover or something immediately next to it. this way you have a second, easy to read point of reference when checking timing.
2. disconnect the negative battery cable. to make sure it's absolutely not possible for the motor to turn over. both for your safety, and to make sure the pistons dont come slamming into the valves if the timing belt isnt together.
3. the crank to cam idler or cam(s) side of the belt should be the taught side of the belt. all slack should be on the tensioner stretch of the belt back to the crank. this is to ensure proper timing, and to make sure when you apply the tensioner it doesnt turn the cam(s) or crank back, out of time.
4. After applying the tensioner, confirming timing marks are still correct, turn the crank over 2 full times back to the timing mark and then confirm the cams are still lined up with their timing marks. do NOT just put it back together once the tensioner is applied without doing this.
5. if the timing belt has any timing lines or marks on it make sure they align correctly. if it has arrows on it, they should be facing out. I am about to do my first civic timing belt (i know everyone in the world has done them but me) so i dont know if they have either of these things, but i did a 96 camry v-6 today that had both lines and arrows. so just take a quick look.
Well, this sure sounds like it might be too much of a job for me to tackle. If I opt to not change the belt, what is the worst that can happen if the belt breaks? Will it cause any damage to the engine, or just leave me stranded at the side of the road?
I will post a pic if you're interest.
<---This one tucks 20"s
