Honda Civic Fuel, Oil, Cleaners & Other MaintenanceExtending the life of your Honda Civic requires the proper fuel, oil, and cleaners, along with other regularly scheduled maintenance. Keep your Honda Civic fuel and oil at the right levels to keep your Civic on the road longer.
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Yeah, I wouldn't trust a tech with more than a my dog's chew bone. Some of them really do know what they are doing, others are not that bright. I used to have a B16A in a '94 civic. I blew the head gasket in the middle of winter, figured I didn't want to deal with it in the middle of winter (about 10F out side), so I took it the dealer to have it done. I told the tech it needed a head gasket from a 1999 Civic Si, he said "but you have a '94 DX." I said I swapped the motors, he told me that was impossible, so I took him out side, showed him the engine in the car, he told me "you have preformed to many modifications to that D15 (D15 is the stock motor and it was a stock B16) and because of that they could not work on it." I went home and did it myself, I decided then that I would never let them do anything to my cars unless they showed me they knew something about cars. Sorry for the rant, but it still bugs me 4 years later, that the tech could even tell it was a B16A.
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Yeah, I wouldn't trust a tech with more than a my dog's chew bone. Some of them really do know what they are doing, others are not that bright. I used to have a B16A in a '94 civic. I blew the head gasket in the middle of winter, figured I didn't want to deal with it in the middle of winter (about 10F out side), so I took it the dealer to have it done. I told the tech it needed a head gasket from a 1999 Civic Si, he said "but you have a '94 DX." I said I swapped the motors, he told me that was impossible, so I took him out side, showed him the engine in the car, he told me "you have preformed to many modifications to that D15 (D15 is the stock motor and it was a stock B16) and because of that they could not work on it." I went home and did it myself, I decided then that I would never let them do anything to my cars unless they showed me they knew something about cars. Sorry for the rant, but it still bugs me 4 years later, that the tech could even tell it was a B16A.
Thats a funny story jrfish and I feel your pain too. If I were you, I wouldve wanted to punch him in the mouth for being for such a retard. I'm suprised they let him wear that uniform. I do wonder however, maybe he was just playing dumb because he didnt wanna take the job for some reason?
Ya they do that. I have to be very careful what I tell them about my car or else...we're sorry your car has too many mods so we can't change your oil anymore.
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The air injection system doesn't put air in the engine... it puts it into the exhaust tract.
They go through a description about open-loop operation, but I'm not sure they employ it on later MKIV VW's. This manual was from 1993.
Therefore, you're right. You don't run lean when the air pumps on. I was right on the purpose of the system, to warm up the cat faster.
Okay, I know what you are talking about. What happens is the engine runs rich, which means there is not enough air to burn all the fuel, so the fuel gets dumped out the engine. Then fresh air is added just after the exhaust leaves the block. At this point the exhaust is hot enough to burn the unburned fuel with the extra fresh air thus heating up the gas that's about to hit the cat, hence making the cat get warmer faster. It's a pretty good idea VW had, but it never caught on until the mid 90's, and '96 (or '95 for some cars) is when the OBDII systems came out, so the air injection method was replaced by the current one (two cats).
Thats a funny story jrfish and I feel your pain too. If I were you, I wouldve wanted to punch him in the mouth for being for such a retard. I'm suprised they let him wear that uniform. I do wonder however, maybe he was just playing dumb because he didnt wanna take the job for some reason?
Yeah maybe they just didn't want to do it... But it was just a stock USDM B16A out of '99 Si, I thought it would be really simple. What makes me not believe that though is that the guy actually though it was a D15, if he would have just said, we don't work on modified cars here, I would have left mad, but I would have still had some confidence in them. I don't know what he was thinking
1. Check your pcv valve, it kind of a long shot, but it's easy to check and only cost $3-4 to replace.
2. Take your intake off so that you can get a good look at the throttle body and make sure nothing is in there. Some time dirt will collect along the sides near the butterfly and cause a low air flow.
3. Reset your ECU
4. Adjust the throttle screw and reset you ECU. Sometimes the ECU will try to compensate. This reminds me, do you still have the VTEC controller on there, maybe that's your problem? It’s possible that thing is calibrated for manuals and thus has a low idle. Not sure if it can control idle, remember that just because you can't adjust it, doesn't mean it doesn't affect it.
These are all things I've had problems with in the past with various cars, that's why I listed them
ive been using 93 for years on all ym cars and havent had a problem but i only drive hondas, ive heard of people burning up injectors with higher octanes but only on domestics, the d17 is almost high compression at 9.9 and it feels much better with 93 instead of 89 or 87, we also have a egr valve so any unburned fuel is returned
Mine has a notation right inside the gas cap area saying the car was made to run on Premium. The salesman also stressed over and over not to use hi-oct.
In older cars (like pre-emissions) higher octane was needed to prevent "engine knock" and "runover" (when you turn off the key, the motor sputters on for a few minutes). Today's cars don't need it. Just like they don't need lead anymore (I have to buy lead additive for my 69 Camaro and use hi-test, or she'll buck like a bronco).
run whatever your car's recommended octane is. that's the best advice I can give. if you use premium on a car that only requires at least 87, you're wasting money at the least. your car won't perform any better unless you're in extreme high temperature areas and are knocking.
this is a VERY old thread, so I'm not going to go into the technical reasons.
they recommended 89 to me at dealer and i told them i only use premium and they said even better i always use premium in my 95 civic it has 12.5 compression so i have to, i have 60,000 miles now on 7thgen and havent had a problem never used anything but 93 octance
run whatever your car's recommended octane is. that's the best advice I can give. if you use premium on a car that only requires at least 87, you're wasting money at the least. your car won't perform any better unless you're in extreme high temperature areas and are knocking.
this is a VERY old thread, so I'm not going to go into the technical reasons.
So you guys using this high octane stuff... what kind of gas mileage are you getting? Have you actually put your cars on a dyno to see if it is making more power, or are you just relying on your butt dyno? Any of you taken your heads off to investigate carbon build up? Or check your cats lately?
By the way, the EGR valve has nothing to do with unburned gas, it doesn't selectively take unburned gas out of your exhaust and put it back, that just doesn't make sense. All it does is equalize pressures, separating the unburned gas would require distillation, and I KNOW no body has a car that does that since those columns are often a few hundred feet tall.
Does it help to use a fuel with a higher octane rating than required in my Owner's Manual?
Refer to your Owner's Manual for the pump octane number recommended for your Honda. Use of a lower-octane gasoline than recommended can cause a persistent, heavy metallic rapping noise in the engine that can lead to mechanical damage.
There is no advantage in using a fuel with a pump octane greater than that recommended in your Owner's Manual.