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My car shakes back and forth at idle in drive when I slightly let go of the brake. Is this due to octane or just a higher compression problem with the head? Can you feel knocking or detonation?
detonation=knocking=pre-ignition, more or less the different words to describe all the same thing.
As for feeling it, I felt it once in my Camaro, but thats a 393 ci (6.4L) motor and it really wasn't that much, so I would guess with a 1.7L motor you wouldn't feel it, but at low RPM (below 3000) you will hear it. You say this is when you put it in gear and let go the brake and start moving, this sounds more like the engine is bogging down to me. If I remember your car right, you have an auto with a built head. My guess is that the idle needs to be brought up a tad. Sounds like the idle is to low, so when you put it in drive and give it gas, the engine just not producing enough power to push the car at the RPM it's at. That just what I think it sounds like, I had that problem on an older truck I had.
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^^^lol, that's not like to give up that easily. Anyway, most people think all Hondas run lean, you are not alone. I must have explained this to 25 people now, no big deal.
I never give up! I talked to the honda factory tech that told me this. He said the engine should run lean, Lean meaning opposite of rich. Not as in very lean.
He says the computer is designed to provide a mixture of perfect mixture to lean, but not to rich except if the temperature goes very high!
???????????????????????????
Jrfish007 that's right. If I turn the ac on and the rpm goes up 100-200, the shaking stops completely. I've tried to up the idle from stock 700rpms, but I can only do 50rpms higher before the cel comes on.
pon55, this is my a/f ratio before and after tuning. Also note the car is not stock. That rich spike in the lower rpms is still there after pnp head work and header. So yes it does run very rich in stock form. Others who had tuning said the same thing. Around 3k is when it starts to lean out, so if you do alot of driving in the city and only take it to 3k, you'll always be running rich.
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I never give up! I talked to the honda factory tech that told me this. He said the engine should run lean, Lean meaning opposite of rich. Not as in very lean.
He says the computer is designed to provide a mixture of perfect mixture to lean, but not to rich except if the temperature goes very high!
???????????????????????????
Yeah, I wouldn't trust a tech with more than a my dog's chew bone. Some of them really do know what they are doing, others are not that bright. I used to have a B16A in a '94 civic. I blew the head gasket in the middle of winter, figured I didn't want to deal with it in the middle of winter (about 10F out side), so I took it the dealer to have it done. I told the tech it needed a head gasket from a 1999 Civic Si, he said "but you have a '94 DX." I said I swapped the motors, he told me that was impossible, so I took him out side, showed him the engine in the car, he told me "you have preformed to many modifications to that D15 (D15 is the stock motor and it was a stock B16) and because of that they could not work on it." I went home and did it myself, I decided then that I would never let them do anything to my cars unless they showed me they knew something about cars. Sorry for the rant, but it still bugs me 4 years later, that the tech could even tell it was a B16A.
Jrfish007 that's right. If I turn the ac on and the rpm goes up 100-200, the shaking stops completely. I've tried to up the idle from stock 700rpms, but I can only do 50rpms higher before the cel comes on.
what's the cel?
How did you try to up the idle? There are a couple of way to do it.
I never give up! I talked to the honda factory tech that told me this. He said the engine should run lean, Lean meaning opposite of rich. Not as in very lean.
He says the computer is designed to provide a mixture of perfect mixture to lean, but not to rich except if the temperature goes very high!
???????????????????????????
most hondas, due to their higher revving nature, run quite rich in the top rpm range. the S2000 itself runs a very rich 11.5:1 in the last 1000rpm or so.
at idle, the cars run VERY lean, as much as 17:1.
in general they run a bit rich if you mash the gas starting low rpm, lean out in the middle, and back to rich in the top end.
Yeah, I wouldn't trust a tech with more than a my dog's chew bone. Some of them really do know what they are doing, others are not that bright. I used to have a B16A in a '94 civic. I blew the head gasket in the middle of winter, figured I didn't want to deal with it in the middle of winter (about 10F out side), so I took it the dealer to have it done. I told the tech it needed a head gasket from a 1999 Civic Si, he said "but you have a '94 DX." I said I swapped the motors, he told me that was impossible, so I took him out side, showed him the engine in the car, he told me "you have preformed to many modifications to that D15 (D15 is the stock motor and it was a stock B16) and because of that they could not work on it." I went home and did it myself, I decided then that I would never let them do anything to my cars unless they showed me they knew something about cars. Sorry for the rant, but it still bugs me 4 years later, that the tech could even tell it was a B16A.
lol did you show him the big ass engine stamp that said B16?
Hmm maybe but acetone eats away plastic...but if it's diluted enough it might not. I sure wouldn't try it. Okay after reading some of that, I would not really try any of those things. Nothing has been proven to last, just to give better mileage. Best thing you could do is throw in some water remover like iso heet to take care of that. I wouldn't go nuts adding stuff to your gas and oil like that.
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The air injection system doesn't put air in the engine... it puts it into the exhaust tract.
Quote:
Originally Posted by VW service training self-study program. Booklet number 406
The purpose of the air pump is to reduce exhaust emissions during engine warm up when the engine management system is in open loop. When the engine is first started and the engine coolant temperature is between 15 degrees and 35 degrees C (58 degrees and 95 degrees F), the air pump will operate. The air pump operates for 65 seconds and then shuts off. The pump forces a calibrated amount of air into each exhaust port. The additional air provided by the pump helps the catalytic converter to reach operating temperature faster. This enables the catalytic converter to reduce exhaust emissions during the engine warmup phase even though the Motronic engine management system is in open loop."
They go through a description about open-loop operation, but I'm not sure they employ it on later MKIV VW's. This manual was from 1993.
Therefore, you're right. You don't run lean when the air pumps on. I was right on the purpose of the system, to warm up the cat faster.
__________________ 2006 Scion tC
With header and hacked airbox- 15.36@89.15
new setup, in progress- injen/CCspipe/magnaflow/NST pulley/hotchkis springs, sways/ingalls/race rubber... An STS car that runs 14's in the 1/4, while staying emissions legal and dead quiet.
Last edited by senseiturtle; 03-25-2005 at 08:27 PM.
I talked to the honda factory tech that told me this. He said the engine should run lean, Lean meaning opposite of rich. Not as in very lean.
Civic minded old man/ low-loud-loven it!
