DIY: Trunk Shocks
10-02-2002
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DIY: Trunk Shocks
Introduction:
Time for another DIY. This one has been floating out there for some time now, but I haven't had the time to get it all together. You'll want to do this DIY if you have aftermarket speakers that don't fit with the stock trunk springs. After removing the stock trunk springs you'll find that the trunk won't open lightly as it did before. The solution? Trunk shocks!
Flip Flop Trunk:
Oh yeah, the flip flop trunk DIY can be done in conjunction with this one. They will work together. However, the weight will shift around differently when the trunk is opening, so the trunk shocks may be able to open the trunk all the way. It is unknown whether that happens though, I'm just guessing...
Parts: (McMaster.com)
9512K73 - You'll need two of these. They're little ball studs.
9512K91 - You'll need two of these as well. They're mounting brackets with ball studs.
9416K74 - You'll need four of these. They're little ball sockets. One for each end of shock.
9416K16 - You'll need two of these. The gas shocks. Select 40 for the force. This is in pounds.
2521A622 - Tap for making threads in the hole you will drill.
90197A146 - Pack of a 100 zinc-plated self-piercing screws.
Total Cost: $39.56
Note: The force is a guess. Mine are only 15 pound ones, but I do have those trunk springs as well. If you're thinking of making new trunk springs as well, then I'de choose 20lbs. If not, then 40lbs. Although if you have a spoiler, or are thinking about a spoiler, then maybe 50 pounds would be better.
Note: You will not need this tap wrench. It will not reach into the place we need. We will mount the tap onto a drill instead.
Tools:
A drill. (cordless works if it's powerful enough)
Drill bits. (one bigger one and one smaller one)
Socket set. (small socket sizes are crucial)
Wrench. (to reach into tigh spots, deep socket would work too)
Rope. (nylon rope works, to hold up the trunk)
Instructions:
First you'll want to take out all of the crap in your trunk and secure the trunk to stay open somehow. If you have a garage, then you can secure it to something on the ceiling as in this picture. However you do it make sure it's secure. You don't want the trunk falling on you!
Now, the trunk shocks will come extented. If you bought the 40 pound ones, then they will be hard to push in. You have to figure out where to mount them. Just use one simple rule. The extended length must open the trunk all the way. The collapsed length must fit when the trunk is closed all the way. If you follow that rule then you'll get something like this...
You will want to drill pilot holes for the bracket mounting screws. Even though they are self piercing, pilot holes will help them go in. Just remember to drill out a smaller diameter than the screw itself, or you won't be able to screw it in. Duh!
Assemble the trunk shocks by screwing on the ball sockets. The ball sockets are already greased up from the inside. You want the thicker part of the trunk shock to be towards the trunk opening (exactly like it is in the picture). This allows for more clearance when the trunk is opened up all the way.
When drilling out the holes for the ball studs you'll want to choose a smaller diameter drill bit than the diameter of the threaded portion of the ball stud. Ideally it should be exactly the same size as the non-threaded portion. If it is a larger diameter, then the ball stud will not be very secure after you thread the hole. If it is a smaller diameter then you will have trouble threading the hole.
Now, secure the tap in the drill. Set the drill to its lowest speed. A variable speed drill is ideal. Dip the tap into some cutting oil; motor oil works, but so does just about any oil out there. Drill the tap into the hole a little bit and then back it out. Keep doing that until you are able to get the whole tap in. You may want to wipe the tap with a rag from time to time to get rid of the shards of metal.
You're basically done! Snap everything into place and test out your new trunk shocks. If you can't get the trunk to close properly, then you messed up when you were measuring. Only do this DIY after you have measured everything out and you are sure that the trunk will open and close all the way. Actually, if you're positive that you measured everything correctly and the trunk still doesn't close properly, then you may want to adjust the trunk latch and/or the rubber bump stops.
**Image not showing**
Note that my setup is slightly different. No bracket. 15 pound shocks. Deeper trunk springs.
I don't use a threaded hole for the ball stud either. I messed up by trying to thread in the ball studs without using a tap on the hole. Whoops! I had to use these threaded rivets that go into the hole and clamp down on the edges of the hole.
At first I had a different pivot point. The stock hole which can be seen in the previous picture. I changed the position and now the trunk opens up all the way. Joy!
Time for another DIY. This one has been floating out there for some time now, but I haven't had the time to get it all together. You'll want to do this DIY if you have aftermarket speakers that don't fit with the stock trunk springs. After removing the stock trunk springs you'll find that the trunk won't open lightly as it did before. The solution? Trunk shocks!
Flip Flop Trunk:
Oh yeah, the flip flop trunk DIY can be done in conjunction with this one. They will work together. However, the weight will shift around differently when the trunk is opening, so the trunk shocks may be able to open the trunk all the way. It is unknown whether that happens though, I'm just guessing...
Parts: (McMaster.com)
9512K73 - You'll need two of these. They're little ball studs.
9512K91 - You'll need two of these as well. They're mounting brackets with ball studs.
9416K74 - You'll need four of these. They're little ball sockets. One for each end of shock.
9416K16 - You'll need two of these. The gas shocks. Select 40 for the force. This is in pounds.
2521A622 - Tap for making threads in the hole you will drill.
90197A146 - Pack of a 100 zinc-plated self-piercing screws.
Total Cost: $39.56
Note: The force is a guess. Mine are only 15 pound ones, but I do have those trunk springs as well. If you're thinking of making new trunk springs as well, then I'de choose 20lbs. If not, then 40lbs. Although if you have a spoiler, or are thinking about a spoiler, then maybe 50 pounds would be better.
Note: You will not need this tap wrench. It will not reach into the place we need. We will mount the tap onto a drill instead.
Tools:
A drill. (cordless works if it's powerful enough)
Drill bits. (one bigger one and one smaller one)
Socket set. (small socket sizes are crucial)
Wrench. (to reach into tigh spots, deep socket would work too)
Rope. (nylon rope works, to hold up the trunk)
Instructions:
First you'll want to take out all of the crap in your trunk and secure the trunk to stay open somehow. If you have a garage, then you can secure it to something on the ceiling as in this picture. However you do it make sure it's secure. You don't want the trunk falling on you!
Now, the trunk shocks will come extented. If you bought the 40 pound ones, then they will be hard to push in. You have to figure out where to mount them. Just use one simple rule. The extended length must open the trunk all the way. The collapsed length must fit when the trunk is closed all the way. If you follow that rule then you'll get something like this...
You will want to drill pilot holes for the bracket mounting screws. Even though they are self piercing, pilot holes will help them go in. Just remember to drill out a smaller diameter than the screw itself, or you won't be able to screw it in. Duh!
Assemble the trunk shocks by screwing on the ball sockets. The ball sockets are already greased up from the inside. You want the thicker part of the trunk shock to be towards the trunk opening (exactly like it is in the picture). This allows for more clearance when the trunk is opened up all the way.
When drilling out the holes for the ball studs you'll want to choose a smaller diameter drill bit than the diameter of the threaded portion of the ball stud. Ideally it should be exactly the same size as the non-threaded portion. If it is a larger diameter, then the ball stud will not be very secure after you thread the hole. If it is a smaller diameter then you will have trouble threading the hole.
Now, secure the tap in the drill. Set the drill to its lowest speed. A variable speed drill is ideal. Dip the tap into some cutting oil; motor oil works, but so does just about any oil out there. Drill the tap into the hole a little bit and then back it out. Keep doing that until you are able to get the whole tap in. You may want to wipe the tap with a rag from time to time to get rid of the shards of metal.
You're basically done! Snap everything into place and test out your new trunk shocks. If you can't get the trunk to close properly, then you messed up when you were measuring. Only do this DIY after you have measured everything out and you are sure that the trunk will open and close all the way. Actually, if you're positive that you measured everything correctly and the trunk still doesn't close properly, then you may want to adjust the trunk latch and/or the rubber bump stops.
**Image not showing**
Note that my setup is slightly different. No bracket. 15 pound shocks. Deeper trunk springs.
I don't use a threaded hole for the ball stud either. I messed up by trying to thread in the ball studs without using a tap on the hole. Whoops! I had to use these threaded rivets that go into the hole and clamp down on the edges of the hole.
At first I had a different pivot point. The stock hole which can be seen in the previous picture. I changed the position and now the trunk opens up all the way. Joy!
Last edited by GolNat; 01-07-2020 at 04:54 PM. Reason: Fixed pictures
10-02-2002
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Rep Power: 302 grey you are the man!
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10-02-2002
#7
DIY King
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Rep Power: 394 I'm not sure? I know that some of them can be, but maybe not all of them. I know that none of these parts are in a store like Lowe's or Home Depot though.
10-03-2002
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Rep Power: 0 hey Grey...looks kinda like my setup! [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG] Linky ...oh yeah...i'm planning on upgrading those struts to ones with a higher load rating...and then rig up some kind of wireless trunk popper deal...
10-03-2002
#10
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Rep Power: 394 Ah, yes it does doesn't it? [IMG]i/expressions/laugh2.gif[/IMG]
Yeah, this DIY should have been made a long time ago.
The first person after me to do this was burrite. (www.burrite.com)
He kinda gave me a few good ideas, so I modified my original design.
Yeah, this DIY should have been made a long time ago.
The first person after me to do this was burrite. (www.burrite.com)
He kinda gave me a few good ideas, so I modified my original design.
10-06-2002
#12
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Rep Power: 394 Hard to say since I didn't do it myself. I kinda did it in increments. Well, my own trunk shocks anyway. The pictures are of another install that I helped with. If you follow the instructions, then I would say that it would take approximately three hours.
10-06-2002
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Rep Power: 0 mine took about an hour of measuring (just to be sure) and about a half hour of doings...if you are taking off the existing trunk springs be careful...i used a pair of vise grips and a screwdriver to pop them off...loaded springs are scary...lol
10-07-2002
#14
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Rep Power: 394 Yeah, that's one thing I didn't mention. To take out the trunk springs your best bet it to just buy the trunk spring removal tool. Trunk Spring Tool - $4.91
10-09-2002
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OMG! Thanks for posting this. I deleted your PM with all the instructions and I felt bad asking again! Woohoo...now I just have to get around to doing this!
10-15-2002
#18
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Rep Power: 394 Hmm... Good question. Judging from the pictures on www.hondaautototiveparts.com I'de say that a coupe's trunk is heavier. Just a little bit though. It's longer than the sedan's, but the sedan has part of the taillight built in, so that kinda adds some weight because of the complexity of the metal in that spot and the exra plastic and wiring. It's a tough call, but I think that choosing the values for the coupe's trunk lid will work out on the sedan. It may be a little overpowered, but that won't be a big problem. It's worse if it's underpowered.
10-21-2002
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Rep Power: 0 installed mine this weekend. not to hard after drilling about 7 extra holes to get the trnk to close. Broke 3 drill bits and the tap and to ball studs, but it works great. the hardest part was removing the trunk spring.
I used 40lb which was fine, but if you have a wing or are getting one definately get 50lb struts. grey thanks for the info
I used 40lb which was fine, but if you have a wing or are getting one definately get 50lb struts. grey thanks for the info
02-19-2003
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Rep Power: 0 alright, after thougoughly reading this DIY, and PM'ing grey, i now have a question. anyone out there know if i could remove the s-shaped trunk hinge/arm, and the two connecting rods, and run shocks only, and still have a functional trunk? if it wont open and close properly and all, there's no need in expiramenting with this, i was thinking that i'd probably need something like 4 shocks in order for this to work correctly, but then again, the question ariese if i could do away with the OEM mechanism and still have a functional trunk, if not, then there's no need in investing the time, money and effort to do this for me
06-14-2003
#26
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Rep Power: 394 Originally posted by Yoyoio
sorry off topic.
hey gray, what kinda speaker are you running in the pic? those looks huge!!
sorry off topic.
hey gray, what kinda speaker are you running in the pic? those looks huge!!
06-18-2003
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Rep Power: 0 I did the shocks today. I have a coupe with a factory spoiler and I used the 50# shocks. In my opinion they were a little too weak. I am thinking about swapping them out for some 60# ones. The trunk stays up fine now, but it still will drop shut, which I didn't want. I want to have to shut it myself.
