streetglower

iTrader: (13)

For anyone who is having problems with there door locks, not opening when using the remote and also if you are in the car and you push the lock/unlock button and they don't pop up, then most likely you actautor is dead. This in turn makes you have to use the key to lock/unlock the door, which I hate. Alot of people are having this happen with there car, as I am one of them. I just fixed it and it works great. So don't go running to the dealer for this unless it is under warranty. If it isn't under warranty, I am going to tell you how to fix the problem.

First I would like to say before I do this DIY, here is what you need to check to see what the problem is. First things first, check your fuses, sometimes a fuse might have blown and that is why the locks arent working.

Second, if the fuses are fine, after you have the door panel removed, make sure all the rods are connected. If they are, the last thing you can do is put your ear up to the corner of the door, not the corner with the speaker, the other corner and flip the lock/unlock button and see if you can here your actuator. Usually it should buzz and if it doesnt, then your actuator is dead. 99% of the time it will be your actuator that is dead. If you do hear it, then you need to check the rods and what not to see if the are all connected.

After you figure out it is the actuator, don't panic and go to the dealer. you will just waste your money. I got my part from Majestic Honda,
www.hondaautomotiveparts.com and it was $42.14 shipped to my door for the part. That is for the door lock assembly and actuator. Honda charges about $90 something for just the actuator and over $100 for the locking assembly. If you can figure out how to remove the actuator from the locking assembly then you can just order the actuator which I was quoted $17 from majestic honda. I have no idea how to get it apart so I just ordered the locking assembly.

Sorry I have no pictures for this since my family and I can't get our damn digital camera to work, but I am going to explain it as best as I can. This DIY is replacing the drivers side door locking assembly, but is the same for the passanger side.

I would also like to give alot of credit to AzNmikex215 for helping me do this project and he basically walked me through getting out my old locking assembly. Thanks bro.

Parts needed:

New door locking assembly
Phillips head screwdriver
Flat head screwdriver
Socket wrench and 10mm socket

First off you need to remove the door panel, if you don't know how to do that, here is the link:

http://robnkester.com/gallery/view_a...album07&page=1

Next once the door panel is removed, move some of the white sheet out of the way. This job is easier if you have the window rolled up, so just plug the window control unit back in and roll it up and then remove the unit.

Now, looking at the door panel, first thing you want to do is release the locking cable from the top of the door panel from the metal bracket. It justs pops out. you can unscrew the door lock tab ( piece with red stripe on it) from the locking cable.

Next remove the small screw in the middle of the door panel. There is a brown plastic piece behind it that connects to the locking assembly and holds the locking cable in place. After the screw is removed, reach behind and pull out the brown plastic piece. It just snaps out. Then pull the locking cable through the hole so that you can stretch it across the inside of the door panel.

Next remove the 10mm bolt in the corner of the door panel. It holds a metal bracket in place. After you remove the bolt, pull out the metal bracket from the rubber piece it sits in. It will just slide out, it is kinda long, so pull it aside and remove it so it comes out the door panel.

Next, remove the 2 connectors from the actuator.

Next look on the side of the door. There will be 3 big screws. These screws hold the locking assmebly in place. Remove all 3 screws.

Next, look at the long silver rod running across the door panel. This is the rod that you first removed from the clip when remving the door panel. Well the other end of it is connected to the locking assembly. Look inside the door panel and you will see that it is also connected by a clip. Just unhook the clip from the rod and pull out the rod.

Next look up in the top left corner if doing the driver's side and the top right corner if doing the passanger side. You will see 2 more rods connected by clips. Do the one in the far corner first, like the other one, just unhock the clip and pull the rod out of the holder.

Next comes the other rod that connects to the door handle. This rod is sorta hard to get out. For this rod you will need to use your flat head screwdriver because your hands won't be able to pop it out. Now stick your screwdriver under the rod and using the frame as leverage, try and push the rod out. Don't try and pull it straight out with the screwdriver, you have to push the rod away from you while pulling it out, towards the door and it should pop out. It will take some muscle, but it should pop out. Don't get frustrated with this one it took me awhile to get it out, but like I said, use your strength.

After that rod is removed, you are now ready to remove the door locking assembly. Just pull it down and out of the door panel frame. now you should be holding the locking assembly in your hand.

The last thing is your door lock cable will still be attached the the old assembly. All you do is release the clip off the cable and pull it out of the assembly.

Congragulations!!! You just removed the door locking assmbly.

Now grab your new locking assembly and re-connect the lock cable to the assembly.

Now putting the assembly back in is pretty even easier. Just slip the new assembly back in the door frame and before you re-install the 3 bolts that hold the assembly in place, reconnect the long rod to the assembly and hook it in place. It was the first one you unhooked from the assembly. Doing this gives you room to reinstall that rod. Putting the 3 screws back in first, you cant really see where to connect the rod.

Now re-install the 3 screws that hold the assembly in place. After that, reconnect the 2 rods to there holders and clip them in place. they all just snap back in.

Next, reconnect the 2 connectors to the actuator. Then grab the metal bracket you removed and slide it back up into the rubber piece. Then reconnect the 10mm bolt that holds it in place.

Next pull the lock cable back through the hole and connect it back to the meatal bracket at the top and screw on the lock piece. Make sure you only screw the lock piece on 1 or 2 turns, other wise when you put your door panel back on, it will sit to far down in the panel.

Next put back the brown plastic piece. It just snaps into the locking assembly and holds the cable in place. Then reinstall the screw that holds the brown piece.

Now reinstall your door panel and BAM, your door locks should be working again.

when ordering your parts from majestic honda, the product number for the drivers side lock assembly is 375099 and the product number for the passanger side lock assembly is 375084. If you have any problems using there website, call them.

If I missed anything some one let me know. Or if you have any questions about this DIY please PM me, email me or just post a question on this topic. Peace.

Mods, I am asking if you would sticky this because I know alot of people on this site have had this problem and this will surely help them out. thanks.

AzNmiKex215

iTrader: (2)

yay! I'm sure alot of people with 01 civics have this problem. My passenger Actuator died out at 35,700 miles. 300 miles before warrenty was up. If i ever get a free Minute i will take pictures to add to the DIY. Hope this helps!

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

cool I just got my digi cam working but dont know how to post pics in a post.

TonySTiX

iTrader: (2)

Great DIY streetglower. I just finished up replacing the assembly and actuator. It's not only the 01's with this problem though..My car is an 02 with 46k miles. Looks like as you get higher in mileage the actuator will eventually die, at least the driver side actuator.

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

mine went at about 65,000 miles. Oh well.

MORG655

Ok my problem sounds like the actuator, but the question is because when I use the switch, it locks and unlocks the passenger side door just fine, while it does nothing on the driver's side. Could this still be the actuator or should I check for disconnected rods before ordering a new actuator?

Also, from hondaautomotiveparts.com, which is the actual part that I need for the actuator replacement? You said you paid 42 somethin' for the entire assembly, but I can't see where you're looking for that. When I did a part search on the side, I show the Left side door lock assemply for 80 somethin' dollars.

2976 LOCK ASSY., L. DOOR NO COLOR 82.56
I also see for actuator
27662 ACTUATOR ASSY., L. FR. DOOR LOCK NO COLOR 31.60
27696 ACTUATOR ASSY., L. SLIDE DOOR LOCK NO COLOR 46.97

Just trying to clear it up a bit. Thanks!

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

I would still check to see if any rods are disconnected. But most likely it is the actuator. But get the part off www.hondaautomotiveparts.com Order the door lock assembly, it comes with the actuator. It is Somewhere like $40. Unless you know how to get the actuator away from the locking assembly, then just buy the actuator.

MORG655

Sorry! I had to edit my post for more information. You were too quick! Please read the above post ^

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...gry5=DOOR+LOCK

you need illustration number 31. Lock assembly for L. front door.

MORG655

Weirdest thing. Without even thinking about it, when I went out to my car in the morning, I used my remote to unlock the car. I got in and thought nothing of it. Then I remembered that it quit working. So now I'm like "WTF?" So I got out and tried to relock it. It worked also. All of a sudden, the lock works fine. Weird eh? It's been working fine ever since. Well I'm going to keep this thread bookmarked just in case. You've been very helpful. Thanks.

aZnVoYCe

iTrader: (12)

I have a similar problem. I have a coupe and the passenger side door won't lock/unlock by using the remote or the power lock. As stated above, it may be the actuator. If it is, my question is...

Buy 031 LOCK ASSY., L. FR. DOOR from http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...gry5=DOOR+LOCK even if it's for the passenger door? It comes with the actuator am I correct?

Thanks in advance.

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

no, you need number 003, for the right door, passanger door. it comes with the locking mechanism and actuator.

aZnVoYCe

iTrader: (12)

^^^ Thanks. Wierd, the right assembly cost more than the left. Hahah. I already checked the fuses inside and out and they were all fine. Tomorrow, I'll need to remove the door panel to check all the rods and check if the actuator is still werking. If not, then I'm off to your DIY.

Btw, thanks fer the well detailed DIY. Everything is well put.

Hopefully it's the same for the passenger door.

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

no problem, yes it is the same for the passanger door, just you are working from the other side.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

stickied for a while. This is a good writeup.

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

thankyou, I had help from AzNmikex215 when I first did this so I give alot of credit to him for helping me.

dezod

iTrader: (74)

Where was the DYI like a month ago when I did this with a buddy.

lapchern

ugh... my 02 civic's driver side door lock just crapped out on me... i have 40k miles too .

lapchern

Where's the pictures for the door panel removal? I think they're gone... can someone help?

ackos

OK. I am having the same problem. When I use the key remote to lock/unlock my doors, only the passenger side door lock will move up or down depending on wether I'm locking or unlocking. The driver side will once in a while barely move, kind of like a small jerk attempt to either lock or unlock. It has not been working for about 3 months now.

I don't here a buzz noise when moving the lock/unlock switch, but as I said before, it will sometimes move a little bit. More than likely it's the actuator, but just want to make sure.

Thanks.

ackos

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

well you need to test it to see if it is the actuator.

ackos

OK! I've replaced the old driver side door lock assembly and it works the way it suppose to.

Thanks!

ackos

nindoo

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I couldn't find the pics either.

XTREME2K2CIVIC

iTrader: (5)

Ok I think mine are out also.. Question for you.. If the actuators are out would it cause the stock lock/unlock remote not to work at all..?? I mean the lights dont flash anymore or anything not to mention dont lock and unlock.. Just wondering.. Cause I figured if the actuators were out the lights would probably still flash..??

Oh yeah one more thing... I have extended warranty and am at 32000 miles would this be covered..

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

yes, when the actuators go out, the remote wont work. Well if one is out, it will lock the door that works, but not flash the lights or anything.

It might be covered, you would have to call and see. If it isnt, just buy a new lock assembly, unless you know how to remove the actuator from the assembly. I didnt.

S2KREY

iTrader: (1)

hey just wondering did u ever get a chance to post the diy pic... b/c i plan on chaging both of mine and they been dead and i just now seen this thread so if you can post pics that would be great.. thanks in advance...

scrimp

iTrader: (2)

My DIY is suppose to just support what he has written with pictures

Mine starts at after u have the old door lock assembly disconnected and out of the car. I think streetglowers DIY missed this part but I had a hard time getting the rod from the door lock piece that has the red oval on it out of the old door lock assembly. This is what I had to do with it. I took my vise grips and bent the metal piece surrounding it so it would come out easier like this:





Theres another rod that u have to reuse from the old lock assembly its the rod from the inside door handle that stretches across the whole door basically. Well, heres two pictures I put together and basically just connect the rods according to number. If u need more details ask me or refer back to streetglowers original DIY

BTW...the rod on number 1 is fake I copied the number 2 rod coz I took the picture w/o number 1 rod connected hehe. I need to work on my photoshop skills but whatever it works. You can see what the rod really looks like in the 2nd picture above




Another thing there is a rubber sleeve that hangs down from inside the door. The door lock assembly goes rite behind that. I thought I broke it after I took out the assembly, but I guess it suppose to be able to slide up and down and swing back and forth as a guide for the window. So dont freak out when u see that. Plus when ur about to connect all the rods back and u have the assembly inside the door. I would suggest screwing in the three bolts on the side of the door to hold the lock in place while ur connecting the rods. Dont tighten the bolts all the way just in case u need to take them coz the rods tend to get stuck in places inside the door before u connect them which happend to me.

Anyways, its really simple once u get in there and get er done lol.

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

now if anyone can figure out how to take out that actuator, please post up. If you can do that, you will save even more money as that is the original problem, but I replaced the whole lock assembly pictured above because I couldnt figure out how to remove it from the assembly.

rustybonz54

ok kids. i did the honorable thing and replaced the drivers door lock actuator +/- minor issues (rain) and after putting the entire door back together, SAME problem. this is a 2002 EX 4door auto ~120,000. does anybody have the decoder ring for this problem outside the obvious? www.hondapartscheap.com was the parts provider, i was the labor. this is my 70 year old retired friends ride. as it stands, he has to do magic to unlock the doors and then re-lock them. the FOB is useless for initial entry. use the key to unlock the door and then the fob works to unlock the remaining 3 doors. get inside and close the driver door and the door switch will lock all 3 doors (minus the drivers door). you must do that manually. the fob won't open the locks from inside neither will the door switch unlock ANY doors. you must manually unlock the drivers door then the FOB works correctly. here is a real gem: with the drivers door open, while pulling the inside open lever (as if opening the door), using the door lock switch will lock the remaining 3 doors. i don't get it. now, 1) i didn't do a voltage check (weather was an issue), 2) the master fuse block has NO WINDOW fuses, and 3) my friend spent $$$ on an actuator and we have the same problem. egg on my face and we still need to fix the goofy thing. help??!?!?!?!?!? i should mention the reason for using the parts supplier is they are "locl" to me and Majetic is in N.J. somewhere. Milpitas, Ca. is close to San Jose, Ca. thanks for any additional assistance provided.

carcare

Those three big screws you are talking about, they are not easy to get out. I tried. Any tips how to take them out? My screwdriver kept slipping.