DIY: Painting Your M3 Mirrors

Whelan · 08-23-2005

Ok so I just finished the painting and have all the pics up but the final ones when they are put back together. Currently the clear coat is drying and I am awaiting my white LEDs to swap out for the blue ones on the mirror (you will see in another DIY) So here we go!

Paintscratch.com Paint
Here is the Paint from Paintscratch.com. It comes with a color match card and (3) spray tips. They ask that you spray a small bit onto the color given on the card to make sure it matches, mine did

Here are the supplies you will need as follows:
-Paintscratch.com matching paint
-Any type of Primer (I used Duplicolor)
-Rustoleum Clear Coat (Home Depot)
-Nose Mask
-Latex Gloves

Closeup of the Paints

Setup:
Make sure you layout plenty of paper for the primer and painting areas. I layed more paper on top of the used paper for the primer in order to keep them separate. Here is a view of my work area. Notice the fans (another one off screen) to keep airflow and fumes out.

Primer:
Make sure as with all painting you do LIGHT coats. I did (2) coats to the pieces on both sides. That is the sides that will be painted later on as well as the other parts which will not (the internals). I let each coat dry for approximately 7-10 minutes.

Colormatch Paint:
I used one 12.5oz. can but if you feel weary about coverage then get a second because I did used every bit of the paint, the can was dry. Again very light coats, I did (3) only on the outside of the pieces. The last coat should be put on extremely even keeping a similar distance with the can to the pieces. Also be sure to spray in the direction of the car. Meaning front of the mirror to the back to keep uniformity.

Clearcoat:
I did not take any pictures of this because clearcoat is...well...clear. Again clearcoat is very important. I suggest at least (3) coats to make sure you get the gloss. I already used one can on the pieces. Make sure you do LIGHT coats and let them sit for approximately 10-15 minutes inbetween. IF you happen to get overspray, simply let it dry completely for 24 hours then sand with 1200 and possibly respray if needed.

Matching:
Here is a picture of one of the plates for the mirror against my car. You can very easily tell how good this paint is, the matching is perfect! Remember the clear coat has not comlpetely dried so the gloss effect is not totally there until after either a light sanding or buff.

Again I will post more pictures when the job is finished and the mirrors are on and functional. But for now this is your DIY for painting your own M3 mirrors and saving yourself a good $100 at least. Around here $200 for the job is cheap and I guarantee you they will not take the mirrors apart like I did to ensure good coverage. So for me it was almost $150 in savings.

Special Thanks To:
-Paintscratch.com
-Jon Volk & Michelle (Thanks girlie, your boyfriend, i.e. my buddy since high school helped a lot with the paint referral and odds and ends.)
-Darcy (My girlfriend for helping me out and giving me the time to work on it uninterrupted, lol.)

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ShoelessEX · 08-23-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by Whelan

Special Thanks To:
-Paintscratch.com
-Jon Volk & Michelle (Thanks girlie, your boyfriend, i.e. my buddy since high school helped a lot with the paint referral and odds and ends.)

awwwwI feel so special!!! I got a special thanks!!!

Looks good though! Cant wait to see it on the car! Hows those wheels doing? HA

Whelan · 08-24-2005

Wheels are fine they are sitting in a warehouse in TX now until I order them. I have to get front brake pads and rear shoes as well.

blouisgod · 08-26-2005

awesome! that clearcoat and primer they try to sell you isnt worth it then if you can just buy normal clear in a can, right????

another ? did you have to use a compound on the paint and clear after doing the work?

I am going to use that paint to do some touch up on my side skirts! good work!!!!

ragingSPAM · 08-26-2005

what do u mean about trying to sell it...also u dont need to use compound if u sprayed well and didnt get orange peel, runs, or try spots...if u buy normal clearcoat from a paintshop as in u buy a gallon with hardener its gonna be more expensive than a rattle can...but than again with a gallon of clear u can do a whole car and than some...

Civic_Gurl030 · 08-26-2005

i think they look good on civics and i dont think its rice good job whelan

eddiechaps · 08-27-2005

sweet DIY i'm only posting so that you can use the diy in my sig to hook them up to your car.

blouisgod · 08-27-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by ragingSPAM

what do u mean about trying to sell it...also u dont need to use compound if u sprayed well and didnt get orange peel, runs, or try spots...if u buy normal clearcoat from a paintshop as in u buy a gallon with hardener its gonna be more expensive than a rattle can...but than again with a gallon of clear u can do a whole car and than some...

SELL: go to the site and they package a "special" primer and clear coat with the base coat paint. its 15 for each, thats why I asked if his results we're okay with the cheap cans of paint, and not the special crap that they want you to use.

ShoelessEX · 08-28-2005

Well when I painted my grill I got the primer and clear coat along with the paint from Paintscratch.com...the primer is fine (just liek any other) but the clear coat is shit...it sprayed on dull and didn't look like clear coat...so we wait a few days for it to dry and did what the site said about using compound on it...and we're going along...then we stop to look...it F*ckin buffed the "clear" right off!!!! WTF $50 on f*ckin $hit...and good ol' rustoliom clear for $3.75 worked PERFECT!!!

blouisgod · 08-28-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShoelessEX

Well when I painted my grill I got the primer and clear coat along with the paint from Paintscratch.com...the primer is fine (just liek any other) but the clear coat is shit...it sprayed on dull and didn't look like clear coat...so we wait a few days for it to dry and did what the site said about using compound on it...and we're going along...then we stop to look...it F*ckin buffed the "clear" right off!!!! WTF $50 on f*ckin $hit...and good ol' rustoliom clear for $3.75 worked PERFECT!!!

awesome! i mean not awesome for the crap you went through, but thanks for the info. +1 rep 4 u

Whelan · 08-28-2005

I dont get a +1 rep, lol.

Yeah I got to hear Michele's horro story of clear coat and milky spray on her grille. We are both pissed at the moment that some teenie bopper girls got into a fight at our Wed. night spot and there were over 100 cars that night and now the cops roll through and you can't even stand there with a coffee in your hand (it's at the Starbucks in Orange, CT) they give tickets for loitering, wtf!!!

Anyways, I will be buying another can and sanding down the clearcoat again down to paint cause I really stretched one can to get it all. Now I will be going over the whole unit put back together. Michele got to see them tonight when she came with her man (my buddy) John and my girl. I think they pretty good and the new white LEDs are F'in hot!

ShoelessEX · 08-29-2005

Nah it didnt look bad at all...a lot better then black!...you're still a ricer though

haha j/k!

Hey thanks for the Rep Blouisgod!

MajinB · 09-29-2005

hey guys im going to be painting my new eyelids in a few weeks. do i need to rub down the peices after the clearcoat or what? just wondering. and what with?

ragingSPAM · 09-29-2005

naw u dont as long as u spray it evenly and get no runs...usually small things like that dont get runs in the clearcoat

MajinB · 10-09-2005

ok so i primered my lids today. they are nice and white now. 2 coats like instructions said. i will post pics later. when i get my can on SSM paint. then i will paint them and take pics to put on this thread. thanx whelan. good DIY. do you mind if i add on with the lids?