Marooka

Just ran into another problem. I think this one's big. I was torquing down the auto tensioner to 33 ft-lbs and right as the torque wrench clicked, the bolt spun. So, as paranoid as I am, I removed the bolt. Lo and behold, it looks like the thread from the block came out because there was some metal about 1/4" long, threaded into the bolt threads.

What do I do now? :-/

mikey1

replace your cyl block

or you can attempt a repair using an insert, however i would never personally trust it, like you, i am paranoid

i never torque a bolt like that to max, in fear of doing what you did, i go 25-30 max





..

ezone

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...oner-hole.html

Marooka

Thanks a bunch to both of you for your help and especially that link! That might just be the saving grace.

I'll keep you posted on how it goes over the next few weeks, being that I can't work on the car until 3 weeks or so from now.

Marooka

Perfect, thank you.

So that seal goes right behind the timing plate -- #12 here: http://www.hondapartscheap.com/auto-...er=13310plma00 -- just like it's shown at 11:04 in this video?

ezone

Yes

I'll have to try this method

Marooka

ok so after MUCH patience and perseverance, she's ALIVE!!!! She's purring like a kitten, thanks to this DIY and everyone's contribution.

Now to fix the leak (oil pan??), SRS code 9-3 (which i'll be taking to the dealership for the lifetime warranty of the seatbelt buckle) and the check engine light because of P-0497 (EVAP System Low Purge Flow)... :/

Anyway, I'm still writing up the re-install portion as I promised, but it might not be for a couple months and it might be a little incoherent bc I was rushing to finish towards the end. If it's any consolation for the time-being, it's pretty straightforward... Just perform the removal procedure backwards. I personally found there could've been a couple steps that might have saved me some time, but like I mentioned, I didn't have much time to experiment. I'll be sure to put them as suggestions in the install write-up though.

ezone

Don't hold your breath. Technically it's not covered for that electrical issue. Some dealers have been covering it even though they are not obligated to, some don't.

It is covered if it will not physically latch the buckle securely.

no-vtec.yo.

I recently just bought a 2003 honda Lx. With the d17a1. I only paid like 500 for it so I didn't think it was a big deal. Couple things that came off odd. When you cut the car off it sounds like clunking. I heard it was common around hondas so wasn't sure. Than took the valve cover over and oil and gas mixture. I havent got any further just got the timing belt tool so I can get the head off a further the inspection. Any advice or needed tools? It would be appreciated.

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

The clunking may be the front motor mount but it could also be a lot of other things. There is a lot of advice in this htread.

Abysmal Amidati

Hey guys, just replaced my head gasket and all the timing stuff and adjusted valve clearances while I had it off, and I just wanted to say thanks to you guys. Without all the resources on this website (the FSM and these great DIYs) I would never had been able to diagnose it, let alone replace it and all the other things I had neglected along the way.

One thing I did mess up (which had me scared stupid that I had bent all my valves) was that when I started it back up after getting everything back together, it idled rough for ~5 minutes and then just stalled out and wouldn't come back on. Turns out that grounding point on top of the thermostat housing belongs to the ECU and mine was dirty as $hit. Clean all the grounding points when putting this back together. It will save you the 1.5 hours I spent of self-loathing while pulling everything out just so you can look at the timing belt and realize everything is still at TDC.

Once again, Thanks for all the great knowledge on here!

ezone

Like these?

Abysmal Amidati

Yes those are the exact ones. Before I cleaned those, the car would only run with an OBD2 scanner plugged into the port (I assume, this creates a secondary ground for the ECU or something). After cleaning those two up, everything was great and operating like it should.

ezone

That's right. The scanner bridges 2 ground pins in the OBD2 connector (but apparently not all scanners do this though).

One pin connects to the ground bolt at the stat housing, the other connects to a ground in the dash somewhere. Bridging the two then supplies the missing ground circuit to the PCM.

HTH

Black02Coupe

any torque specs for putting stuff back? things like the valve cover and the intake?

mikey1

that info can be found in a shop manual, or even an aftermarket manual like haynes

civicloco

There's a torque cheat sheet with all of the info you need, and then some.
Do a search.

7thgensurvivor

Little help? I am on the step where you move the auto tensioner to get the timing belt loose.

Unfortunately, I don't see the bolt referenced in this picture, so I am not sure what to loosen. Any help?

7thgensurvivor

disregard, I just slipped the belt off by slowly moving it off the crankshaft.

mikey1

all you need to do is unhook the spring from the peg on the engine, that will release the tension on the belt, reconnect the spring when the new belt is on

7thgensurvivor

Trying to find the torque specs in the manual for the 2 nuts and 3 bolts that hold on the water / egr manifold, opposite side of the timing bolt that bolts on to the head with a metal gasket in between. Anyone know or have that picture? Can't seem to find it anywhere...

7thgensurvivor

Also trying to figure out where this gasket (i think it is a gasket, see attached) goes. It came with my felpro kit, but I don't remember taking anything like this out.

Any ideas?

7thgensurvivor

Ok, figured out that is the EGR port gasket. Going to replace it now. Still trying to find the torque specs for the thermostat / coolant housing block.

7thgensurvivor

Ok, took of the EGR canister thingy. Little concerned now. It looks like there is a metal gasket on the bottom of the canister now. It started to peel up as you can see in the picture attached, but it feels fairly well fused with the EGR canister. The new gasket feels like cardboard. Is this really what I am supposed to use?

If so, I suppose I have to peel the old gasket off? The cardboard gasket has a flat side and a rounded edged side, not sure which side goes up or down.

Any help?

ezone

It's usually pretty safe to use the specs for other similar 8mm fasteners like the intake manifold hardware, 16 ft-lb
(I like to use a thin layer of aviation sealant on that steel gasket for peace of mind but it's not supposed to be necessary)

The EGR gasket is a sandwich type there is a layer of metal in the center of it, paper (not really paper) on the outsides. Either way will work (except backwards), it's just got to seal up all the holes.
Yes, scrape off the layers of old gasket.

7thgensurvivor

EGR back together.

Now trying to get the intake manifold on. There are three nuts that go on the underside of the the intake manifold pipes, but for the life of me, I can't fit my hands up there to get them on. Been searching, but haven't found anyone else who was having this trouble.

Any advice? I will keep searching...

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

box end wrench and a LOT of patience..

ezone

The one you can see through the center slot in the plastic from above?

Get a magnet and a small screwdriver (and patience!)--- you can hang the nut in the right place with the magnet, then gently rotate it onto the stud with the screwdriver, until it is threaded on far enough to hang by itself and you can spin it the rest of the way on with a finger. Then a wrench. A couple different box wrenches may be necessary because none will move the nut a full flat, but they all can move the nut to a different spot so the next wrench will. LOL

On the outer corners, I think I use various swivel sockets.

If you need to start a nut with a socket, place a piece of black tape across the opening of the socket then stuff the fastener into the socket, the tape will keep it in place.


NOTE: Going by fuzzy memory here, most of this is explaining techniques instead of doing the actual job.

If you are trying to thread onto the two studs that stick out the bottom holes of the injector plate between runners 1+2 and 3+4-- Those should have been assembled (injector plate to manifold) prior to this point in assembly.

7thgensurvivor

Well, that makes a lot of sense. Don't know why I didn't think of that before hand. I ended up taking the fuel rail off which gave me access between the pipes to all three, the one in the center, and the two I should have done earlier.

Got it done, but made it much harder than it should have been.

Thanks for the advice as usual!

JoeKillaMofo

Hey all, just wanted to say I am about to start doing the HG on my 02 Civic this weekend, already done the timing belt a year ago or so but the engine has a LOT of miles (260k) so I am thinking about doing the rings at the same time. Any advice? Also I was wondering, since I am taking most of my engine apart is there any aftermarket stuff I can buy and add during the process that will lengthen the life of the car (other than replacing the engine completely) or give me better gas mileage or anything?

Thanks in advance for the tutorial, I have read the entire thread plus a few of the links and a bunch of youtube videos, I will let you know how it goes, does anyone need pics of some part of the process for the thread or anything else?

J