beastyben1

OMG guys. Three Advance Auto stores had the secondary in the primary 02 sensor box. AA, Autozone, and O'Reillys didn't have the secondary either. What a mess!

BootyDo

This thread hasn't been touch for almost a year - sorry. Just had to say "thanks"!

My gf's '03 EX is now around 85k and, given that her daily commute has turned into 100+ miles, I'm anxious to take these steps. One thing though: Would a can of SeaFoam after all this through the Brake Booster hurt anything? I've used it several times on my trucks and noticed a HUGE difference. But never had any experience with a Honda engine before.

botakcivic

Me too!

Hey Gearbox, thank you very much for taking the time to take those pics.
Its real helpful.

Appreciate it!!!

Deadlyshaddow

Don't forget cleaning your grounds.

wasantha

plz help me gear box i did tuneup as ur way but new mileage is 7-,8kmpl,before it was 12kmpl....i run 4000-5000km after the tuneup plz tell me what has happened..thanks

abhijitz

Just curious - I have noticed a significant mileage drop [36 to 30mpg {2003 Honda Civic LX}]. Planning to do all the tune-ups. Car is at 71K miles. Would you still recommend changing the primary O2 sensor even when i do not have any associated CELs displayed?

Also, does the Lubecontrol FP60 and LC20 really help with the mileage?

Tragedy

iTrader: (10)

Yes.

Tragedy

iTrader: (10)

Yes. You just need an assistant to keep the rpm's at 1500-2500 while the line slowly intakes the cleaner. I used BG fuel system cleaner that way. Did not want to pull rear seats.

abhijitz

yes to lubecontrol or change o2 sebsor or both ?

abhijitz

haa haa ... for some reason i thought my car was a 2004 and i was looking for the EGR valve and VTEC solenoid (none exists for my car - 2003 Civic LX). But, i measured & inspected the spark plugs ... They look good and within spec [apparently PO used Laser Platinum NGKs, unsure when he changed it, car is currently at 71K miles]. Also, cleaned the PCV valve but couldnt take off the ICV housing [will order screws because i am pretty sure if i force further they will strip off]

Planning to run a bottle of Techron FI cleaner. [unless i shouldnt run these cleaners?]. Hopefully i get my mileage back to 36/37mpg.

I am still unsure if i should be changing the primary O2 sensor yet ? as manual states every 100k miles.

alex_nyc

anybody got a part# or other part suggestion for an external trans filter?

Great Write-up GEARBOX!

DIYcivic

I have an after market cat back exhaust and headers on my 2000 Honda civic ex. The car runs fine and doesn't have any issues besides the idle. It seems that the car will idle fine then when I stop it will sort of sputter and then catch back up to a normal idle. Any idea what is causing this?
Note:I don't have a cat after I put the aftermarket exhaust on. Just a straight pipe. Aldo I had to modify the o2 sensors in the straight pipe because it kept throwing a code. I used a spark plug non-fowler to pull it out of the exhaust stream a bit. No more check engine light.

kyle7

How hard is it to clean out the vtec? Ive been getting the p1259 lately. I've just been pulling the ecu fuse to make it go away for awhile. I can see exactly where the vtec is but dont want to mess anything up.

hyper_cool

Thanks for the great Write Up. I hope you don't mind asking a few questions before I attempt doing maintenance on my car.

I have a 2004 Honda Civic 4DR LX Auto. I started to notice that after starting my car the idle goes up from 1000+ then goes down to 650RPM. I'm going to replace the O2 Primary sensor soon since it wasn't replaced yet and my car is at 160K+ now.

I just want to ask, are the location of the EGR valve and IACV and the Throttle Valve still the same for 2004 Honda Civic compare to 2001 to 2003?

Thank you in advance. Sorry for the trouble.

Poopies

iTrader: (4)

Yep, the engine is the same so the locations are the same. You can easily see both of them upon a visual inspection.

lilrob1213

Okay, this may be a dumb question, but can I use brake parts cleaner instead of carb cleaner? Or should I go buy some of that? (already have brake cleaner) If I do have to buy some carb cleaner should I buy a specific kind/brand? I've seen carb and choke cleaner or gunk brand or what else is there? Looking for cheaper options if possible.

Is it possible to clean the throttle body without removing it?

bahena08

[QUOTE=gearbox;4333172]In my ongoing quest to keep this car running like new, i thought i would post some of the recent mods i did. In addition to these, you should keep your battery and terminals in good condition and inspect ground wires for corrosion. Make sure to check the electrolyte in the battery every month and add distilled water if needed. most battery have caps that can be pried open to add water. make sure terminal clamps are tight, and wires are securely attached. Anything connected to the + battery must have a fuse to prevent car fire if the wire shorts out. here is a list of fuses and wire sizes. its a bit on the safe side, and usually you can get away with using a fuse thats several amps higher for each wire gauge.

[IMG]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b42/berberoglu/Table.gif[/IMG

1. primary oxygen sensor. these are supposedly rated to last 100k miles by honda. I found that after 20k miles, the performance starts to drop noticably. I just switched mine out at 80k miles when the check engine light came on for low response. I suggest not waiting that long. The sensor is only $50 (01-03 civics) from advance auto and should be replaced between 20-40k miles, imo. it is super easy to change. you just unplug the connector, push out the wire grommets from the stock metal clamps, and unscrew the sensor. jacking up the front driver side of the car made things very easy. i used a cresent wrench and hollow pipe breaker bar to get the old one off, no special tools needed. they do have a special deep socket with cutouts for wires to fit if you want to buy another extra tool lol.

here is a pic showing the old sensor screwed in the downpipe just below header (EX) or in the manifold (LX).

for the EX, it is much easier to get to from under the car.

[IMG]https://www.civicforums.com/forums/honda-civic-pictures/files/8/1/7/7/minituneup1.jpg[/IMG

you want to get the BOSCH sensor OEM type with connector for 01-03 civics (part 13532), which is exactly the same as the stock part. 04-05 civics use a very expensive wideband sensor with a different part number. It even says NTK on the outside. Be VERY careful when installing the new one. the sensor is extremely sensitive. Do not touch or drop the tip. Keep the inside AND outside of the sensor free of dirt and liquids. The tip gets old just by being exposed to exhaust gas, but the outside can be damaged too by fluids like antifreeze. always keep it clean and wipe off any road spray with a damp water cloth. Apply a small amount of anti-seize grease to the threads before installing. Be careful not to get any on the sensor! be careful when handling a new sensor because alot of them already have anti-seize on the threads, which can easily get all over the sensor when opening the package.

You will notice immediate increase in throttle response and decrease in idle surge when coasting. The auto trans will shift from R to D faster. and you will get 2-3mpg better gas mileage compared to an old sensor.

UPDATE!! There have been problems with Bosch putting the wrong sensor in the box. I have heard of reports where user bought a primary sensor but instead there was a secondary sensor in the primary box. looks like someone messed up at the factory. So if you can, try to buy the sensor at a local store so you can examine it. here is a pic of the two types of sensor. on the right is the primary, and on the left (with a plastic cover) is the secondary. If you install a secondary into the primary spot, you will have problems since they are totally different sensors. beware of what you are buying and be sure it is the correct part in the box. These part numbers are for the 01-03 civic EX but again you must open the box and be sure the correct sensor is inside.

primary (upstream) downpipe sensor: bosch 13532

secondary (downstream) in the cat converter: bosch 13534

primary on right, secondary on left! do not go solely by the part numbers.

[img]https://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n524/webster426/IMAG0015.jpg[/img


2. EGR valve. this thing came stock on all civic EX 01-05 and all 04-05 civics. Its purpose is to recirculate exhaust gas back to the engine in order to reduce harmful NOx emissions and also make the engine run slightly cooler. You can remove it with a socket wrench and extension bar, then spray inside the bottom with carb cleaner. spray until you dont see any more brown/black fluid coming out. Let it dry and then reinstall. Also a great time to paint the lower rusted portion of the valve before reinstalling. You can use a new gasket, but the old one looked fine so i didnt bother.

[IMG]https://www.civicforums.com/forums/honda-civic-pictures/files/8/1/7/7/minituneup2.jpg[/IMG

[IMG]https://www.civicforums.com/forums/honda-civic-pictures/files/8/1/7/7/minituneup3.jpg[/IMG

[IMG]https://www.civicforums.com/forums/honda-civic-pictures/files/8/1/7/7/minituneup4.jpg[/IMG

the car may take a bit longer to start up the first time after this mod, since it needs to adjust to the new conditions.

3. VTEC solenoid. Located on the rear of the engine, it controls when the cam profile switches under full throttle (racing). It has oil passages and also a screen mesh filter than should be cleaned regularly for optimum flow. A clogged solenoid screen (usually from using a K&N air filter that lets in too much dirt), will cause the check engine light to come on if enough oil is blocked. Engine code P1259 vtec malfunction. There are only 3 bolts holding the solenoid to the engine head. they are shown partially removed below.

[IMG]https://www.civicforums.com/forums/honda-civic-pictures/files/8/1/7/7/minituneup5.jpg[/IMG

[IMG]https://www.civicforums.com/forums/honda-civic-pictures/files/8/1/7/7/minituneup6.jpg[/IMG

there are three other top facing bolts that hold the head on. Should be very easy to remove if you have aftermarket intake. otherwise, you will need to disassemble the stock intake and hardware.

inside of solenoid with filter screen. remove the gasket and clean the screen with a cotton cloth. also clean around the mating surfaces and remove excess dirt on the edges.

[IMG]https://www.civicforums.com/forums/honda-civic-pictures/files/8/1/7/7/minituneup7.jpg[/IMG

[IMG]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b42/berberoglu/vtecsolenoid.jpg[/IMG

you can take off the head and clean around that too. make sure the solenoid button works properly by pressing on it a few times.

[IMG]https://www.civicforums.com/forums/honda-civic-pictures/files/8/1/7/7/minituneup8.jpg[/IMG

4. PCV valve. located to the right of the throttle body down in the middle of the bay, it allows crankcase gases to vent and then recirculate with fresh air in the intake manifold. over time the stock valve may become clogged with oil deposits. Since the valve is entirely metal, you can spray it down with carb cleaner, then reinstall it. it is a simple spring loaded valve and should not need to be replaced, ever. be sure not to lose the washer when removing. First pull off the rubber hose connected to the valve, then use a 17mm deep socket to remove.

[IMG]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b42/berberoglu/pcvpositions.jpg[/IMG

[IMG]https://www.civicforums.com/forums/honda-civic-pictures/files/8/1/7/7/minituneup9.jpg[/IMG

5. EVAP canister air filter. Bet you didnt know the car had four air filters. (one in the engine bay, two cabin filters, and the evap filter). This one is hiding out in the rear of the car, next to the fuel tank. It has one bolt holding it to the frame, and two hoses that just pull off. be sure to install the new one in the same direction. It is $20 from dealer and i recommend changing it every 100k miles. It was dirty, but not that bad. The filter is part of the vapor recovery system our cars have to burn fuel vapors that are trapped in the evap canister. it draws in fresh air from outside. here it is on the rear drivers side

[IMG]https://www.civicforums.com/forums/honda-civic-pictures/files/8/1/7/7/minituneup10.jpg[/IMG

taken off the car

[IMG]https://www.civicforums.com/forums/honda-civic-pictures/files/8/1/7/7/minituneup11.jpg[/IMG

and cut open just for fun lol

[IMG]https://www.civicforums.com/forums/honda-civic-pictures/files/8/1/7/7/minituneup12.jpg[/IMG

6. throttle body and IAC valve cleaning. over time, the throttle body and idle air sensors will get clogged with carbon blow-by and eventually get stuck, causing noticable idle issues such as stalling and surging. usually the worst deposits occur when the motor is breaking in during the first 20k miles. after you clean it once, it should not need cleaning for a long time (i cleaned mine 4 yrs ago and its still spotless inside).

first remove the factory airbox or aftermarket intake. the throttle body is underneath. locate the basic parts. IAC valve is bolted to the throttle body and has two coolant hoses running into it. remove the radiator cap to depressurize the cooling system (only remove cap when car is cold after sitting overnight, and wrap a towel around to catch any coolant spray). remove the vacuum hoses, sensor connectors, coolant hoses, and throttle cables (they unhook when you completely open the throttle and slide out the locking pins). then unbolt the throttle body. you may want new gaskets for the TB/IM and TB/IAC, but i reused the old ones.

[IMG]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b42/berberoglu/tbclean2.jpg[/IMG

[IMG]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b42/berberoglu/tbclean1.jpg[/IMG

the IAC has three philips screws holding it. be sure to use the exact size screwdriver to remove them. they are very tight and easy to strip. use some penetrating spray to loosen them first. IAC is removed and clean. you want to spray carb cleaner all over inside the port. try to avoid getting the connector part wet. it should look spotless when youre done. keep going until the carb cleaner flows out clean. use q-tips if you have to scrape.

[IMG]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b42/berberoglu/iac1.jpg[/IMG

throttle body is not as important, but you should clean inside anyway and spray carb cleaner on the middle valve. i polished mine up, but ofcourse it looks nothing like that now.

[IMG]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b42/berberoglu/tbclean.jpg[/IMG

once youre done cleaning, reassemble everything. whenever the throttle body is removed, you must complete the idle learn procedure otherwise the car will not idle properly. to do this, start the car and warm it to operating temp. you can drive around to do this and should not have too many problems except unsteady idle. park the car and turn it off. open the hood, locate fuse box, and remove the FI ECU fuse.

[IMG]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b42/berberoglu/fuse-box.jpg[/IMG

put the fuse back in, close hood, and start the car. let it idle for 10 minutes in park or neutral without using any lights/accessories or pressing the gas. after 10 mins, shut the car off. start it again and go for a drive like you normally would. it will take up to a full tank of gas for the ecu to relearn fuel maps and readiness codes. the idle will be set, but it may take a while until the ecu adjusts and you start getting good mileage again. do not perform these mods if you are having the car smog-checked immediately afterwards. it is a guaranteed fail. you need to wait at least 100 miles or more.

thats all for now...keep your car running its best![/QUOTE



Has Bosch fixed the sensor situation or are they still mixed up?

Poopies

iTrader: (4)

As of summer 2013 it was still messed up...

2005seTO

Hi guys

I performed the throttle body and iac cleaning and there was a ton of carbon build up. I never removed the tps sensor but I may have sprayed some carb cleaner through the black tps port.

After putting everything back together it's throwing a p0122 code. It's idling high and shifting poorly.

Any suggestions? Did I fubar my tps by doing this?

Thanks

MassCivic

Did you remember to pull the FI ECU fuse and do the idle learn after reinstallation?

2005seTO

I checked yesterday and looks like the sensor was half plugged in. All is well now. Thx

gts

Question regarding part numbers as relates to the pic for the O2 sensors.

gearbox says one on the right is upstream and one on the left is downstream.
But unfortunately the pics I've see online so far (on Amazon for example) the pics show the reverse of what gearbox stated.

I'm confused. Can someone please confirm which is which in the pic?
I just want to be sure especially if Bosch is still mislabeling boxes.

That said does anybody know if Bosch is still screwing up and putting the wrong ones in the box?

Thanks!

ezone

Forget Botch.

Use DENSO or NTK, whichever company made the original sensor you wish to replace.

You may have to use a wire brush on your original to read who made it.

anthonyelectric

Gearbox,

I am new to Gen 7 Civics and this thread is excellent.

I bought a car with a coolant issue, just replaced the radiator which solved the noticeable leak, now I am living with a wild idle.

Thank you for providing gen maintenance and specialty tips. This is what forums are all about!

Anthonyelectric

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

Unfortunately, Gearbox hasn't frequented these forums in quite a while, but there are a good amount of people that can try to address your issue.

First off, try the "idle reset procedure" to see if your idle fixes itself.
Method 1
1) Disconnect battery or remove FI-ECU fuse for a while (10-15 minutes should do). After those 10-15 minutes, reconnect battery or reinstall fuse.
2) Start the car and allow to run at idle for 10 minutes (do not apply gas or anything. Just turn it on and let it be).
3) Turn off the car, then turn it on again.
4) Take for a test drive and see if your idle fluctuates when you come to stops.

Method 2
1) Ignore issues for about 100 miles worth of normal, everyday driving. It'll reset itself after some time.

ezone

^^If the idle is surging repeatedly from 2000-1200 RPM, probably either the IAC is stuck open or it has a large vacuum leak somewhere.

anthonyelectric

I am leaning this way as it happens once it reaches a certain Temp., idles nicely when cold.

No luck on the Re-learn.

Today I completed:
1.oil and filter change (unknown last date) This kept the idle surge between 1200 - 1700, a decrease from a high of 2100,

2.Primary Upstream O2 Sensor. BOSCH changed designs the one listed here wasn't available at the store. I got BOSCH 15710

3.Added some hold downs to the air box (bottom is shot, only 3 of 6 were bolted, now 5 of 6 are). Air filter appeared fine, but I might as well change it.

Tomorrow Tranny fluid.

Thanks for jumping in on this old thread. I realize how old some of these posts are!
Anthony

Johny

Hey I have a 2001 Honda Civic ex boyfriend change the throdle body cause of a idle issue now is worst any advise to fix the problem ?

Slumpertcivic

Find a new boyfriend that is a certified mechanic?

Issues we run into now is who knows what condition your car is now. Usually you know everything was fine till something broke, but now we have to consider incorrect installation as well as broken parts..

Certainly start with idle relearn step
Take to autozone and have them scan for current codes and pending codes.

Be ready to learn auto repair or take it to someone who knows it.

Billy Davidson

Impact screw driver & light taps.