DIY: Timing Belt Replacement
03-25-2005
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DIY: Timing Belt Replacement Well here it is for everyone, the DIY for the removal and installation of a new timing belt. This should be done on the 7thgencivic at around 110,000 miles. Or when the tensioner goes out.
Well here is a list of the tools needed for this job:
1. A ratchet
2. Socket set ( especially 19MM socket ) also a few star shaped sockets
3. A long Breaker bar
4. A crank pulley holder tool which can be purchased here
http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...ROD&ProdID=629
5. New Timing belt
6. New Tensioner ( Optional and Highly recommended )
7. New Crank Pulley ( Optional )
8. New Water Pump ( Optional and hignly recommended )
9. New Cylinder head cover Gasket ( Not Head Gasket, valve Cover gasket )
Now I dont have pics, and some of this would be helpful to you to have pics, but I will detail on where certain things are to help out.
Now for the removal:
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio. Then write down the frequencies for the radios preset buttons.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.
3. Turn the crankshaft pulley so its top dead center (TDC), mark the lines on the crank pulley with the lines on the block.
4. Remove the lft front tire/wheel.
5. Remove the splash shield.
6. Remove the adjust plate mounting bolt ( This bolt is right next to the top wing nut that is next to the power steering pump pulley ), locknut ( which is below, it has a washer on it ), and mounting bolt which is next to that locknut, then remove the power steering pump belt, and pump without disconnecting the P/S hoses.
7. Remove the alternator:
After removing the power steering pump, Disconnect the 4P connecter and the alternator cable from the alternator. Loosen the adjusting bolt ( Which is the lower wing nut to loose tension from the alternator belt, then remove the lockbolt and mount bolt and remove the alternator and alternator belt.
8. Remove the 4 Ignition coils:
Basically remove the spark plug cover by the 2 plastic screws, then disconnect the ignition coils from the connecter and pull them out of the spark plugs. Then remove the spark plugs.
9. Remove the throttle cable clamps which are on the back of the cylinder head cover, then remove the harness holder which is on top of the cylinder head cover, held on by a few bolts.
10. Remove the cylinder head cover.
11. Hold the crank pulley with the special tool and the breaker bar.
12. Remove the bolt with a 19MM socket and either a breaker bar or heavy duty socket ( You will use the breaker bar to hold the special tool, so another one might come in handy ). Now if you have access to a impact wrench, it might come in handy for removing this bolt, since it is held on by almost 200 ft. lbs. of torque. After the bolt is removed, remove the pulley.
13. Support the engine with a jack and wood block under the oil pan.
14. Remove the upper bracket ( It is on the right side of the cylinder head ).
15. Remove the groomet from the upper cover ( It looks like a rubber piece with a wrapped up set of wires coming out of it ) and disconnect the camshaft position sensor ( CMP ) ( Top dead center ( TDC ) sensor connecter, which is on the other side of the groomet.
16. Remove the upper cover and the lower cover. You will see it on the side of the block. Covers up the timing belt.
17. Remove the side engine mounting bracket. It is a piece held in by 5 bolts under the camshaft pulley.
18. Remove the crankshaft position sensor ( CKP ) from the oil pump without disconnecting the connecter.
19. Move the auto-tensioner to remove the tension from the timing belt, then remove the timing belt. There is a star looking bolt on the side of the tensioner that you rotate with a ratchet to move the tensioner away from the belt.
That is all there is too removing the timing belt.
Now for the installation:
1. Clean the timing belt pulleys, and the upper and lower covers.
2. Set the crankshaft to top dead center ( TDC ), align the TDC mark on the timing belt drive pulley with the marks on the oil pump.
3. Clean the camshaft pulley and set it to TDC.
1- The UP makr on the camshaft pulley should be at the top.
2- Align the TDC marks on the camshaft pulley with the top edge of the
head.
4. Install the timing belt in a counterclockwisesequence, starting with the drive pulley.
1-Drive pulley
2-Tensioner pulley
3-Water pump pulley
4-Camshaft pulley
5. Install the crankshaft position sensor, and torque the bolt to 8.7 ft. lbs. of torque.
6. Install the engine mount bracket with the mounting bolts all torqued to 33 ft. lbs. of torque.
7. Install the lower cover, and tighten the bolts to 7.2 ft. lbs of torque.
8. Clean the pulley bolt and washer.
9. Clean all oil off the inside face of the crankshaft pulley, and apply new engine oil to the pulley bolt and washer.
10. Install the crankshaft pulley, and tighten the bolt to 181 ft. lbs of torque. DO not use an impact wrench.
1- Hold the pulley with the breaker bar and the special tool.
2- Tighten the bolt with a torque wrench and 19MM socket.
11. Tighten the pulley bolt an additional 90 degrees.
12. Rotate the crankshaft pulley about 5 or 6 turns counterclockwise so that the timing belt positions on the pulleys.
13. Turn the crankshaft pulley so its TDC marks line up with the marks on the engine block.
14. Check the camshaft pulley marks.
If the camshaft pulley marks are also at TDc, continue install.
If camshaft pulley marks are not at TDC, remove the timing belt and repeat steps 2-10.
15. Install the upper cover, and torque the bolts to 7.2 dt. lbs of torque, then connect the camshaft position sensor connecter and install the groomet.
16. Install the upper bracket, torque the bolts to 40 Ft. Lbs of torque.
17. Install the cylinder head cover, using a new gasket.
Install the head cover gasket in the groove of the cylinder head cover. Making sure it is all wedged down into the grooves of the head cover. Clean the mating surface of the head cover, and apply liquid gasket at the 4 corners of where the gasket makes a semi-circle. Where the head cover dips down. Once placed on the head, torque the bolts to 7.2 ft. lbs. of torque.
18. Install the harness holder and throttle cable clamps. tightening the bolts to 7.2 ft. lbs of torque.
19. Install the ignition coils.
Basically install the spark plugs first, then install the ignition coils over the plugs and connect them to the connecters.
20. Install the alternator. Basically in the reverse order of removal. Adjust the belt tension with a belt tension gauge. Tightening the lower wing nut will achieve the tension on the belt. If a new belt is installed, tighten the belt to 540-740 N and run the engien for 5 min, then loosen the belt to 340-490 N.
22. Install the power steering pump. And adjust the belt tension on the power steering belt. this belt will be tightned at the top wing nut. A new belt needs to be adjusted to 740-880 N and run the engine for 5 min then adjust to 390-540 N.
24. Install the splash shield.
25. Install the front tires/wheels.
26. Connect the negative battery cable.
27. Start the car and make sure it runs alright, then re-enter radio information.
thats is it, there is the DIY for the timing belt replacement.
Since I have been typing this since 9:30 I am going to stop for now, tomorrow I will finish explaining the process for new water pump install and a new tensioner install.
If you have any questions, please ask.
And mods, please sticky this since alot of people want it.
Well here is a list of the tools needed for this job:
1. A ratchet
2. Socket set ( especially 19MM socket ) also a few star shaped sockets
3. A long Breaker bar
4. A crank pulley holder tool which can be purchased here
http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...ROD&ProdID=629
5. New Timing belt
6. New Tensioner ( Optional and Highly recommended )
7. New Crank Pulley ( Optional )
8. New Water Pump ( Optional and hignly recommended )
9. New Cylinder head cover Gasket ( Not Head Gasket, valve Cover gasket )
Now I dont have pics, and some of this would be helpful to you to have pics, but I will detail on where certain things are to help out.
Now for the removal:
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio. Then write down the frequencies for the radios preset buttons.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.
3. Turn the crankshaft pulley so its top dead center (TDC), mark the lines on the crank pulley with the lines on the block.
4. Remove the lft front tire/wheel.
5. Remove the splash shield.
6. Remove the adjust plate mounting bolt ( This bolt is right next to the top wing nut that is next to the power steering pump pulley ), locknut ( which is below, it has a washer on it ), and mounting bolt which is next to that locknut, then remove the power steering pump belt, and pump without disconnecting the P/S hoses.
7. Remove the alternator:
After removing the power steering pump, Disconnect the 4P connecter and the alternator cable from the alternator. Loosen the adjusting bolt ( Which is the lower wing nut to loose tension from the alternator belt, then remove the lockbolt and mount bolt and remove the alternator and alternator belt.
8. Remove the 4 Ignition coils:
Basically remove the spark plug cover by the 2 plastic screws, then disconnect the ignition coils from the connecter and pull them out of the spark plugs. Then remove the spark plugs.
9. Remove the throttle cable clamps which are on the back of the cylinder head cover, then remove the harness holder which is on top of the cylinder head cover, held on by a few bolts.
10. Remove the cylinder head cover.
11. Hold the crank pulley with the special tool and the breaker bar.
12. Remove the bolt with a 19MM socket and either a breaker bar or heavy duty socket ( You will use the breaker bar to hold the special tool, so another one might come in handy ). Now if you have access to a impact wrench, it might come in handy for removing this bolt, since it is held on by almost 200 ft. lbs. of torque. After the bolt is removed, remove the pulley.
13. Support the engine with a jack and wood block under the oil pan.
14. Remove the upper bracket ( It is on the right side of the cylinder head ).
15. Remove the groomet from the upper cover ( It looks like a rubber piece with a wrapped up set of wires coming out of it ) and disconnect the camshaft position sensor ( CMP ) ( Top dead center ( TDC ) sensor connecter, which is on the other side of the groomet.
16. Remove the upper cover and the lower cover. You will see it on the side of the block. Covers up the timing belt.
17. Remove the side engine mounting bracket. It is a piece held in by 5 bolts under the camshaft pulley.
18. Remove the crankshaft position sensor ( CKP ) from the oil pump without disconnecting the connecter.
19. Move the auto-tensioner to remove the tension from the timing belt, then remove the timing belt. There is a star looking bolt on the side of the tensioner that you rotate with a ratchet to move the tensioner away from the belt.
That is all there is too removing the timing belt.
Now for the installation:
1. Clean the timing belt pulleys, and the upper and lower covers.
2. Set the crankshaft to top dead center ( TDC ), align the TDC mark on the timing belt drive pulley with the marks on the oil pump.
3. Clean the camshaft pulley and set it to TDC.
1- The UP makr on the camshaft pulley should be at the top.
2- Align the TDC marks on the camshaft pulley with the top edge of the
head.
4. Install the timing belt in a counterclockwisesequence, starting with the drive pulley.
1-Drive pulley
2-Tensioner pulley
3-Water pump pulley
4-Camshaft pulley
5. Install the crankshaft position sensor, and torque the bolt to 8.7 ft. lbs. of torque.
6. Install the engine mount bracket with the mounting bolts all torqued to 33 ft. lbs. of torque.
7. Install the lower cover, and tighten the bolts to 7.2 ft. lbs of torque.
8. Clean the pulley bolt and washer.
9. Clean all oil off the inside face of the crankshaft pulley, and apply new engine oil to the pulley bolt and washer.
10. Install the crankshaft pulley, and tighten the bolt to 181 ft. lbs of torque. DO not use an impact wrench.
1- Hold the pulley with the breaker bar and the special tool.
2- Tighten the bolt with a torque wrench and 19MM socket.
11. Tighten the pulley bolt an additional 90 degrees.
12. Rotate the crankshaft pulley about 5 or 6 turns counterclockwise so that the timing belt positions on the pulleys.
13. Turn the crankshaft pulley so its TDC marks line up with the marks on the engine block.
14. Check the camshaft pulley marks.
If the camshaft pulley marks are also at TDc, continue install.
If camshaft pulley marks are not at TDC, remove the timing belt and repeat steps 2-10.
15. Install the upper cover, and torque the bolts to 7.2 dt. lbs of torque, then connect the camshaft position sensor connecter and install the groomet.
16. Install the upper bracket, torque the bolts to 40 Ft. Lbs of torque.
17. Install the cylinder head cover, using a new gasket.
Install the head cover gasket in the groove of the cylinder head cover. Making sure it is all wedged down into the grooves of the head cover. Clean the mating surface of the head cover, and apply liquid gasket at the 4 corners of where the gasket makes a semi-circle. Where the head cover dips down. Once placed on the head, torque the bolts to 7.2 ft. lbs. of torque.
18. Install the harness holder and throttle cable clamps. tightening the bolts to 7.2 ft. lbs of torque.
19. Install the ignition coils.
Basically install the spark plugs first, then install the ignition coils over the plugs and connect them to the connecters.
20. Install the alternator. Basically in the reverse order of removal. Adjust the belt tension with a belt tension gauge. Tightening the lower wing nut will achieve the tension on the belt. If a new belt is installed, tighten the belt to 540-740 N and run the engien for 5 min, then loosen the belt to 340-490 N.
22. Install the power steering pump. And adjust the belt tension on the power steering belt. this belt will be tightned at the top wing nut. A new belt needs to be adjusted to 740-880 N and run the engine for 5 min then adjust to 390-540 N.
24. Install the splash shield.
25. Install the front tires/wheels.
26. Connect the negative battery cable.
27. Start the car and make sure it runs alright, then re-enter radio information.
thats is it, there is the DIY for the timing belt replacement.
Since I have been typing this since 9:30 I am going to stop for now, tomorrow I will finish explaining the process for new water pump install and a new tensioner install.
If you have any questions, please ask.
And mods, please sticky this since alot of people want it.
Last edited by streetglower; 03-30-2005 at 03:28 AM.
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Bryan Sibert (05-30-2020)
03-29-2005
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Rep Power: 0 Thanks for the info.
I'd look into that tool a little more before I bought it. It doesn't really look like it'll work with our crank pulley.
I'd look into that tool a little more before I bought it. It doesn't really look like it'll work with our crank pulley.
Last edited by MarkM01; 03-29-2005 at 12:03 PM.
03-29-2005
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Rep Power: 335 good DIY
send it to derek and have him ad it to the diy section
But forget me doing that
I'll just pay someone to do it for me.
send it to derek and have him ad it to the diy section
But forget me doing that
I'll just pay someone to do it for me.
03-29-2005
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Rep Power: 0 its obvious that this write up is not even a DIY yet, since he has not done it.
one problem on the tool part. that pulley holder will only work safely if the car is on a lift. i wouldnt reccomend anyone do this on the jacks. although the pulley holder can be extend to jam to the floor but how are you gonne open it from the other side of the pulley holder???? theres just not enough space to do so w/ the pulley holder.
btw, if you want to try it, dont use any sort of extension on the socket cause it will snap.
the easiest method for DIYers, if you dont have a good(i mean a really good one) impact gun w/ a decent size tank, is to drive it out to a local shop and let them pop it open for you and tighten them not so tight. then slowly drive home. this is what ive done in the past and several shop owners recommend this over this one board.
one problem on the tool part. that pulley holder will only work safely if the car is on a lift. i wouldnt reccomend anyone do this on the jacks. although the pulley holder can be extend to jam to the floor but how are you gonne open it from the other side of the pulley holder???? theres just not enough space to do so w/ the pulley holder.
btw, if you want to try it, dont use any sort of extension on the socket cause it will snap.
the easiest method for DIYers, if you dont have a good(i mean a really good one) impact gun w/ a decent size tank, is to drive it out to a local shop and let them pop it open for you and tighten them not so tight. then slowly drive home. this is what ive done in the past and several shop owners recommend this over this one board.
03-29-2005
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Originally Posted by profuse007
its obvious that this write up is not even a DIY yet, since he has not done it.
one problem on the tool part. that pulley holder will only work safely if the car is on a lift. i wouldnt reccomend anyone do this on the jacks. although the pulley holder can be extend to jam to the floor but how are you gonne open it from the other side of the pulley holder???? theres just not enough space to do so w/ the pulley holder.
btw, if you want to try it, dont use any sort of extension on the socket cause it will snap.
the easiest method for DIYers, if you dont have a good(i mean a really good one) impact gun w/ a decent size tank, is to drive it out to a local shop and let them pop it open for you and tighten them not so tight. then slowly drive home. this is what ive done in the past and several shop owners recommend this over this one board.
one problem on the tool part. that pulley holder will only work safely if the car is on a lift. i wouldnt reccomend anyone do this on the jacks. although the pulley holder can be extend to jam to the floor but how are you gonne open it from the other side of the pulley holder???? theres just not enough space to do so w/ the pulley holder.
btw, if you want to try it, dont use any sort of extension on the socket cause it will snap.
the easiest method for DIYers, if you dont have a good(i mean a really good one) impact gun w/ a decent size tank, is to drive it out to a local shop and let them pop it open for you and tighten them not so tight. then slowly drive home. this is what ive done in the past and several shop owners recommend this over this one board.
Sorry there are no pics, but maybe I can add them once I actually do it.
Now about the air compressor, what would you all recommend for the size to get? I have been wanting to get one for awhile and I just was given a mach tools impact wrench with 475 ft. lb of torque. I have been told I need to go with a 5HP AC or above. What about the PSI rating?
I have been told I need to look for one with around 120 PSI or more and with a CFM rating higher then the power tool I have. The one I have I think is about 3.5 CFM.
Last edited by streetglower; 03-29-2005 at 06:57 PM.
03-29-2005
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Rep Power: 0 look at the rating on the gun itself. the rating are usually at 90PSI working pressure and diff gun uses diff air comsumptions(CFM). then go out to get the air tank.
for example, the 30gallon from craftsman is suitable as far as specs goes and for good future use. you can run a 1/2" gun anywhere from 500-1000ft lb. some gun only consume ~4CFM while output at 1000ftlb. But not many ppl want to go out and invest in these since theyre expensive.
ive heard of ppl havin to go w/ 3/4" impacts to get the job done on some honda.
for example, the 30gallon from craftsman is suitable as far as specs goes and for good future use. you can run a 1/2" gun anywhere from 500-1000ft lb. some gun only consume ~4CFM while output at 1000ftlb. But not many ppl want to go out and invest in these since theyre expensive.
ive heard of ppl havin to go w/ 3/4" impacts to get the job done on some honda.
03-30-2005
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Rep Power: 0 As far as a compressor. The HP rating really wouldn't have anything to do with using an impact. If you want power out of an impact, you'll want the highest rated gun, and the highest max psi on your compressor. My impact is rated at like 400ft/lb, and my compressor goes to 150 psi. So I hope that's enough. We'll see.
If you snap a 1/2" drive extension. Get a better extension.
If you snap a 1/2" drive extension. Get a better extension.
04-01-2005
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Rep Power: 0 I tried getting my crank pulley bolt off last night. I got it off, but just barely. At first it wouldn't budge. So I ran my compressor down until it kicked on, that way it'd be at max psi when it stopped running. I soaked the bolt in penetrating oil, and set the impact at full power. I hit the impact several times, and the bolt finally came loose.
So I'll be attempting the swap soon.
So I'll be attempting the swap soon.
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