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<font face="Verdana">This is a minor mod that helps keep the air going through your throttle-body cooler. There is a Throttle-Body Heater that is attached to the left side of your throttle-body.(blue arrow) This heater keeps your throttle from freezing in the wide open position by circulating hot fluids through it, thus heating it up and transferring the heat to your throttle-body. But this is only a concern in the colder regions. This mod is a very simple modification that can be reversed or put back to normal at any time.<br />
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The following is a picture of the area before the modification: (donated by ph0ng)<br />
<img src="/diyimages/tbdiy.jpg" />
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<strong>For this mod you will need:<br />
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Pliers and a section of 1/16" pipe/tubing about two inches long.<br />
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1. You will need to remove your stock airbox if you still have it. If you have a CAI or SRI, you should be able to complete this mod without removing the intake.<br />
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2. You need to locate the inlet and outlet hoses that connect to the Throttle-Body Heater.(red arrows)<br />
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3. After you locate the hoses, use your pliers to loosen the clips/clamps and slide them back away from the TB heater.<br />
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4. Next you can remove the hoses from the throttle body heater. A little bit of greenish fluid (antifreeze) may leak out as you are removing them, but this is not a big deal. I had to use a screwdriver to gently pry mine away from the heater. Over time they will be heated up enough to form a pretty good seal. If you use a screwdriver, use a very small one and be careful not to fo(k up the hoses.<br />
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5. Once you have the two hoses removed, you will need the piece of pipe or tubing. You can purchase a piece of small pipe at your local Discount Auto Parts or Autozone it will need to be at least 2 inches long. I'm not sure the exact diameter that you need, but I know it's less than 1/8". After you find piece that will fit into the hose, you will then slip half of the pipe into one hose, and the other half into the other hose. Essentially, you are trying to connect the inlet and outlet so that they will continue to circulate the fluids.<br />
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6. Now that you have the two hoses connected by the pipe, you can slip the clips/clamps back up to the end of each hose.<br />
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After you finish the 6 steps above, just make sure that the two hoses that are connected can rest without having any kinks in them. When I was finished, I found another piece of hose about 4 or 5 inches long that I could slip over the inlet and outlet on the Throttle-Body Heater...just to keep things from crawling in there or whatever. You know, I'm **** like that.<br />
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Well, I guess that's it. Overall, this is a very easy mod. It only took me about 10 minutes to complete. If you have any questions, post them here, e-mail me, or P.M. me. Also, I don't have a pic of the final mod right now, but I will try to post one below this.<br />
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SlimRisk

i believe the coolant keeps the throttle body cold when its hot out, and hot when its cold out. to keep idle normal or what not i forgot where i read that

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

yeah this mod has been proven to be a bad idea long time ago. the iac valve on the throttle body operates based on the coolant temp going to the throttle body. so you will mess up the idle speed (esp with an auto trans) if you cut off the coolant. also, the TB area is so small that its temperature does not affect the actual air temp by more than 1 or 2 degrees since the air is moving so fast. and once the engine warms up, the car cuts off coolant flow to that area anyway. if you are worried about the intake getting hot, just mount it so the pipe is not actually touching the TB. i have mine a few mm above so it doesnt touch the pipe and transmit heat (aftermarket intake).

JohnHenry

Soooooooooooooooo, I have recently encountered this little tb IAC valve when I did my 70mm throttle body upgrade... when you purchase a aftermarket tb, just because it says it fits and matches, it will not specify that there is not a place for a IAC valve... I'm still mind bending over the solution, today I am going to try something and see if I can stop this minor issue... I will post results. Currently the new tb and mild port make me so happy with mpg, and a little quicker step, but over time driving- check engine light comes on throwing a iac valve code- when this happens- it messes with the idle a little, not alot. Still fine accelerating and shifting with an auto trans.


Edit: Please chime in if any viewers have a solution that does not involve putting the stock 56mm tb back on, thankyou.

dariusld

^^^^^^Do you know you are in the wrong section?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

you can try blocking off the iac port on the tb (if there is any) and instead adjusting the idel set screw so that the throttle plate stays cracked open slightly when you are not pressing the gas. this will allow the car to idle without an iac valve like in the old days. it does take some trial and error to find the right amount of adjustment. then you can leave the iac unplugged. as far as the engine light, it may take some searching but you could prolly fool the computer enough with resistors so it thinks that its plugged in. the only problem is your idle speed will always stay the same, regardless if the car is warm or cold. this can cause the engine to warm up more slowly on cold days.

JohnHenry

96-00 civics and seventh gens have the same IAC bolt on t.b. stock...

JohnHenry

My solution for this problem:
Took the IAC of the stock t.b (4 philips head bolts), found/customized a cover plate and some high temp silicone. The only thing that it deleted, is the air ported through to the a coolant port where fluid passes the tempature through the walls of the port to all work together and move the iac valve. Here are some pics of my civic with a 70mm omni on and functional with inlet ported on the manny to match.