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i installed everything according to the instructions.. car ran good for about a week. then driving in 3rd about 4000rpms. my car started to bogg and the Infamous light went on(check engine light)... now whats going on?
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Did you hook up every wire that was shown on the first post? Then do the initial setup before turning on the car for the first time? Most people get the check engine light because they left out the vtm wire.
haha.. i was just got the info from my car so i could post up the inital setup procedures but u beat me too it.. lol.. anyways.. make sure u solder ur connections.. dont use that stuff that comes with the kit and crimp it... it can come loose... maybe something u connected got loose.. thats just my opinion
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gearbox. you first posted the initial setup instructions and the first page.. and you said to hold down the accelerater for 10 sec. and then let it go for 10 sec. what does this do?
good for you.. now if something happens down the line u cant blame it on the wires coming loose... haha.. i think earbox loves editing my original post... makes me wonder how much of the original post is still mine.. lol..
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The accelerator thing is to make the vafc learn your throttle position, so it knows how much you're pressing the throttle and if you're at wot. There's actually a readout for one of the monitor functions.
hey dudes, i got my VAFC connected with that diagram i have an 04' civic and well its still got an unstable idle and it sputters a lot any ideas? i set my VTEC to enage at 5800 and then i checked it and it said vtec is engaging at 3250 and now it wont change..... do i need to hit initialize???? im not sure plz lemme know thanks...
Did you perform the initial setup BEFORE starting the engine? It's in the first post. If you don't do the setup, you will have big problems. Initialize the unit (wipe the memory), and unplug the car battery to erase the ecu memery. Then plug it back and turn the car to ON (do not crank motor). Now with the vafcII on, follow the initial setup instructions, turn the car off, and then you can set values. NEVER set fuel or vtec values while the car engine is running!
Hey you're from Illinois? Near chicago, if so we have meets in Schaumberg sometimes.
Did you perform the initial setup BEFORE starting the engine? It's in the first post. If you don't do the setup, you will have big problems. Initialize the unit (wipe the memory), and unplug the car battery to erase the ecu memery. Then plug it back and turn the car to ON (do not crank motor). Now with the vafcII on, follow the initial setup instructions, turn the car off, and then you can set values. NEVER set fuel or vtec values while the car engine is running!
Hey you're from Illinois? Near chicago, if so we have meets in Schaumberg sometimes.
I guess he's talking about the "etc." menu's VTEC Info....That number 3250rpm, -94kpa(or psi) and 2% throttle will NEVER change. It's just a list of what the ECU's original setting is. Use that as a reference to set VTEC engagement.
__________________ Dynaudio 3-way is the worst system for tuning, but it's the best sound I've ever heard of....Finally, done tuning for staging....
i did follow initial setup instructions, but that was when we followed APEXi's original wiring, we called ONE SIX and they reccommended checkin out this site and we did we got the new diagram and well we did the initial set up although i think it was kinda half assed so maybe we will try that tomorrow, if not we were thinking of taking it to one six tomorrow and having them run it, and the 3250 rpm's sounds really low for vtec engagement?????? and it was around that point that the car would sound boggy the High to low cam switch over point is where the car would "shudder" at wide throttle...lemme know what you guys think, and if any of you wanna talk directly the SN (on AIM) blingracerx THANKS GUYS
The ECU is tuned for midrange power. The engine is made for midrange power also. 3250rpm is the MAX engagement point set in the ECU. In wide throttle then the ECU will engage VTEC right at 2500rpm. Question should be asked for whether we should let the VTEC engagement point at 2500rpm. The answer, I would say that, if you don't want the engine to lose power at midrange, then leave it alone. I did several dynos and had them analized. The result is that, the higher the engagement point you move to, for every 1000rpm, you lose about 10% of power, and, torque, up to the engagement point, then it goes back to where it should be.....
That's my advice. I don't know if many people will disagree(I know somebody really want to argue with me and say, set the point to 4000+). But we have 1 wild lobe and 1 flat lobe, I don't know why people will do it at 4000 and lean it up, then the ECU tries to correct the fuel and you lose power again, without sign and warning.
One important thing to keep in mind is that, VTEC controllers are NOT meant to extract more top end power. It IS used to get a "smooth power and torque curve". In older VTEC's, the graph often show a flat and dip around 4000-5500rpm range. VTEC controllers are then used to correct it, to gain the power back in that range. This is ALSO why older VTEC cars LOWER the engagement point, sometimes down to 3000rpm. Then think about it, why we want to raise the point?
Anyway, I did dyno'd it and found that, if I move my VTEC point up to 4000rpm, I have a complete FLAT curve from 3300-4000 then a sudden jump when VTEC engages. Tuning is not appropriate at that region because it's still running at 12Valve mode.
__________________ Dynaudio 3-way is the worst system for tuning, but it's the best sound I've ever heard of....Finally, done tuning for staging....
