VAFC II Full Installation Info

[gearbox]

cor = a/f correction factor. I have mine set to 4mode display with cor, throttle position, rpms, and battery voltage. The correction shows you when the vafc is modifying the air/fuel ratio from stock. All the v-things are for the vtec correction I think? Glad it's working. Now get it tuned on the dyno.

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[SODJAZERO]

Ok fellas i found out what the problem was. The shop that had installed my return fuel line, connected the external pump to the wrong power connection and it was drawing current away from the altenater. Wich inturn was causing the external pump to faid during WOT. (I SURE HOPE I DIDNT DAMAGE A HG DURING ALL THIS) I was getting a p1298 code, wich pointed to the ELD or HIGH ELECTRONIC LOAD DETECTOR. Wich explained why i was only having this problem while on HIGH throttle. It was weird because my power windows were suffering too because of the connection source they used. They should have used a relay straight from the battery to power the pump, instead they used something direclty from the ecu harnes. What this is i dont know, heck i dont even care anymore. So i removed everthing hoses ect wires ect....Went back to stock. The car works fine. So now the moral of the story is, if you decide to do a return line conversion make sure its somewhat like the slp fuel kit, meaning intank pump ect.

Thanks gearbox and xproductions for all of your help.

[xproductionz]

Originally Posted by parditty

Im so happy my VAFC II is working now, Got some questions now though. What does COR mean? VAI? & the other v thing? I think its like voc or something? The different displays is what i'm referring too

thanxs

heres the abbreviation for each

prs = intake pressure
thr = throttle position
rev = engine rpm
cor = air correction factor
vti = vtec signal in from ecu (if you have a ex ecu with a signal being sent out from it)
vto = vtec signal out from vafc
cai = vtc cam angle(we dont use these on our cars
bat = battery voltage.(comes in handy when you use the radio in your car alot but dont start the car to charge the battery.. just dont let it fall below 12.0 volts because when mine fell below to 11.9 the cqar didnt have enough juice to start)

and we dont have a VAI on ours so i think you got the CAI and one of the VTI or VTO mixed with it

[xproductionz]

Originally Posted by SODJAZERO

Ok fellas i found out what the problem was. The shop that had installed my return fuel line, connected the external pump to the wrong power connection and it was drawing current away from the altenater. Wich inturn was causing the external pump to faid during WOT. (I SURE HOPE I DIDNT DAMAGE A HG DURING ALL THIS) I was getting a p1298 code, wich pointed to the ELD or HIGH ELECTRONIC LOAD DETECTOR. Wich explained why i was only having this problem while on HIGH throttle. It was weird because my power windows were suffering too because of the connection source they used. They should have used a relay straight from the battery to power the pump, instead they used something direclty from the ecu harnes. What this is i dont know, heck i dont even care anymore. So i removed everthing hoses ect wires ect....Went back to stock. The car works fine. So now the moral of the story is, if you decide to do a return line conversion make sure its somewhat like the slp fuel kit, meaning intank pump ect.

Thanks gearbox and xproductions for all of your help.

funy you say that cause the other day i was talking with this one guy that works at another shop didnt know what the hell a D17 was... he was like damn i didnt know they made a D17... he was still stuck on the B and D16 series motors... and when i mentioned K20 he thought i was talking about some kind of gun..lol