RoccoCroce

This was something I felt I needed to do.

I'm always buckled but I cannot stand hearing it beep when I turn to ignition and when I unbuckle before I park.

Materials

1. Twisty-Tie Bag Ties. ( Seen in the produce section )

2. Torx T-15 ( Correct me if I'm wrong. I was using my Klein 11-In-1 , which has 2 Torx bits in it that are common to the Electrical field but I forgot their respective sizes. I believe its T-15 and T-25 )




Procedure

1. Disassemble driver-seat seatbelt buckle
I believe this is a T-15 Security bit. You can use a normal torx and if you keep even pressure on the center, the coarse thread screws will come out- doesn't take much.

Pop the cover down and out to remove it. To remove the rear side, slide the base out of the molded flex arm it snaps into and push towards arm rest. Lift the rear cover off the guts.




2. Expose lever switch
Pop the mini lever switch out of the metal clamp it snaps into. You can just wiggle your finger under it and it'll pop out. You may even be able to grab it and lift it out with two fingers as well. Mine just popped out after a loosening wiggle.




3. Semi-Permanently "Close" the switch
Strip a twisty-tie / bag tie of its paper or plastic sleeve and expose the thin metal wire. ( Free fingernail strippers! ) Hold the lever down "closed" with your opposite-hand thumb and wrap it tightly towards the shorter "fulcrum" end.


You should be able to make two rotations before you have to twist the sides back together for a tight connection.

Tuck the twisted end neatly into the switches molded plastic cavity. Rotate until knot slides into a cavity on the switch ( This is just to keep things neat ).

To remove any extra slack, slide the "loops" towards the fatter "Effort" end of the mini switch.





Testing

Be sure the switch has no motion and doesn't click when you apply pressure to the lever. This indicates switch is closed successfully.

The thin wire should easily clear the switching arm that engages when you DO plug your buckle in. Be sure to test for this as well.

Turn the key on to ignition ( II ) and enjoy the blissful sound of fuel pump priming and relays for car bits clicking.

Snap the switch back in and covers back on. Tighten screws till they stop around OR before hand tight. If you don't have a security bit set, you will have a harder time getting these out later- for whatever reason.



Conclusion

The same brain that allowed you to complete the convenience mod is the SAME brain that is telling you to remember to buckle up.




Now, for the last time, be sure to wear your seatbelt.

Thanks,
Rocco

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

cool beans, but I'm sure there are easier ways to do it.. Jump the wires going into the connection, no need to pseudo-safetywire a switch shut.

Also, been around the block a while, but I have a question.. Am I the only one that doesn't have the audible seatbelt warning? Sure, the light illuminates when I'm no buckled in, but I get no audible warning..

RoccoCroce

I tried that first. Later model cars' SRS systems seem to work on a resistive circuit and not a NO/NC switched circuit.

Tried it every which way first and each time, SRS light..

This would be the best way to do it which is why I decided to make this DIY.

To answer your question, I'm not sure where the buzzer is located.....so I cant really say if its unplugged. Doubtful that the solder connection broke.

Every other civic I've been in beeps or buzzes and / or flashes lights.

Poopies

iTrader: (4)

Mine will make a couple of "dings" when I start up but that's the last I hear about the situation. It seems that cars nowadays are programmed to nag the driver every minute or so until they either buckle up or punch the dash to death. My dad's '08 Tacoma does this and he calls it the "Seatbelt ****."

RoccoCroce

New cars -_- getting used to it myself. If you don't wear it at all then......
http://bit.ly/1jY5R0T