gearbox

iTrader: (95)

This is sort of a repost. ohmysac covered it pretty well. I just thought a good DIY would be helpful to everyone. Credit goes to ohmysac and krisic at wash u. This is adapted from his DIY. Rumors that a 98-00 Accord Trunk Opener bolts directly to a 7thgen are true. There are actually two models.

The 98-00 accord opener P/N: 08E49-S84-100H looks like this:



The 01 accord opener P/N: 08E49-S84-101H looks like this:



Okay, so the difference between the two is that the 01 has the green self release so if you get stuck in the trunk you can get out

You can get this from Handa Accessories for $30.
98-01 Accord Trunk Opener @ Handa

Okay, on with the install.

Tools you need are the following:
1. 10mm Socket Wrench
2. Rachet
3. Hook up wire
4. 22-18 gauge connectors
5. Crimping Tool

The install is pretty to the book of the instructions that come with it which you can get here.
Install PDF

1. Open the trunk and remove the trunk opener rod from the key cylinder. In order to remove the rod from the light blue retainer, you must rotate the retainer clockwise to unclip the rod and then pull the rod out of the hole.



2. Unclip the trunk light switch from the original trunk lock by depressing the tab and pulling on the black plastic housing.

3. Remove the Trunk pop cable by pulling the cable housing retainer out of the clip and then manipulating the cable out of the Trunk lock.



4. Remove the Trunk lock by removing the 2 10mm hex bolts.

5. Swap the trunk lock rod from the old trunk lock to the new trunk lock. Do not reverse the orientation of the lock rod. Remove the lock rod from the old trunk lock as in step 1. Transfer the lavender colored retainer clip to the new trunk lock. Squeeze the tabs on the retainer clip in order to remove it from the old trunk lock.



6. Reinstall the new trunk lock by mounting it with the 2 10mm hex bolts.

7. Reinstall in the trunk light switch.

8. Reroute the Trunk pop cable so that it can be reinstalled on the new trunk lock. Try to make the bend radius of the cable as large as possible to prevent binding.




9. Reinstall the lock rod onto the key cylinder.

So that should have taken you like 15 minutes. Now comes the hard part. The trunk requires a 12v+ signal to open. If you have an alarm that outputs + signal then you can just wire the blue wire from the trunk opener to the signal wire of your alarm. If your alarm outputs a negative pulse like mine did, you need to use the relay that comes with the kit.



There are four prongs and to attached wires to them, I recommend you go to the hardware store and pick up some 22-18 gauge connectors.

So here is how the wiring goes for the relay. If you look on the diagram on the relay there are two prongs associated with coil/resistor and the other two prongs have a switch in between them. You'll want to connect you cars 12v line to one of the prongs with coil and one of the prongs with the switch. Doesn't matter which one. Then, you want to put the negative output wire from your alarm to the other coil prong and the wire to the trunk release in the other switch prong. That's it. If you hold the button for the trunk release on your remote, the relay should click. If it clicks, you know its powered and working. Make sure you ground the relay as well.

It should work then, to hide the wires, I tucked it under the door sill along the carpet line and through the back seat.

NOTE: Make sure you use the 12v line from the battery or from the steering column harness. I tried to use the 12v from the OEM alarm harness and it didn't have enough current.

That's it, hope this helps everyone looking to get remote access to their trunk.

4M1EL

[left]
I have a 2005 Honda Civic with a Viper 5301 remote start installed. Where do I connect the new trunk opener's terminal? My car's terminal has a green plastic end with 2 pins in it. Is that where the new trunk latch's terminal supposed to connect to?

atbjr

2012 Update on this 2008 post: first off Handa accessories dosent have the part because i tried to get one from them and they said that Part and # was discontinued, so i looked on ebay and found a couple of sellers selling that same exact part for a 2001 accord, but they want a ridiculous $50.00 for it, Fu*k that!
If you want this part you can get it from HPC (hondapartscheep.com) OEM and Brand New! for $28.99 (CA tax is $3.95) and $8.50 for shipping (could be more if your not in California) or pick it up yourself to avoid shipping charges if your near Milpitas,CA heres the new part# 74851-S84-A41, this part fits 2 and 4 door 2001 honda Accords which can be appiled to your EM2 Civic, I cross referenced the numbers with the E-bay part and it looks like its the right one, I havent ordered mines yet but when i get around to it i will, and also keep you all posted.

GoldHCH2003MT

Can anyone confirm that part number 74851-S84-A41 will fit on a 2003 HCH?

GoldHCH2003MT

I received it few weeks ago and the part number from ATBJR's post fits nicely on my Civic! Thank you, ATBJR.

I am almost done with the installation using original keyfobs. I had to add a button to my fobs and then drilled a hole in the shell to reach the trunk button. The new shell with 4 buttons are on the way, so what I have right now is temporary.

I build a black box containing chips to read the signal from the keyless receiver. I will install the box tomorrow morning along with few other modifications to the dashboard.

GoldHCH2003MT

The part number 74851-S84-A41 is confirmed. Attached are the photos of the new package, original latch, side-by-side latches and newly swapped latch on my Civic.

CIVICF5

First off, this thread is amazing. So excited to have this on my car. Also, thanks GoldHCH for posting these. So if I understand the 74851-S84-A41 just has an extra wire for power that the stock one does not?

CIVICF5

Hey GoldHCH, I'm trying to understand how you're using the Honda 3 button style fob. I thought those ones operated on a different frequency that isn't compatible with a 7th gen. Also, do you know if there is a way I could use an 8th gen key/fob combo on my 7th gen?

GoldHCH2003MT

Yes, it does. Actually there are 5 wires when the stock latch have two. I only need 3 wires and the other two are left alone. I just cut the connector off the latch and use spade terminals. It plugs in the other connector that goes for the trunk light. I added a quick-disconnect terminal for the power trunk.

The unused extra two wires goes to another switch inside the latch. The brown wire on it is a switch that the original latch have and is what I use. The other switch just below the brown wire are left unused. See photos.

GoldHCH2003MT

CIVICF5, The original fob that came with the car have its frequency all set. It just send commands over the same frequency. With the 4th button I added, it sends out a 4th command. From what I understand, the commands goes to the MICU (or multiplex, whatever it is) and decode the commands in there. I could fiddle around with it but I do not like the idea of taking the fusebox out making me car-less for a while.

I thought about going for 8th gen key (similar as 2006 CRV). I checked the frequency and was not the same as my Civic. I had an option of swapping the keyless receiver AND the ignition cylinder to use the newer keyfobs. I'm not sure if the new receiver will send out the same commands as the old one. Not to mention that the key chips have to be compatible, have them programmed or get a bypass kit.

CIVICF5

I guess what I'm really trying to understand is how you added a forth button. It looks like there is a little part you used (from your picture) to do that. How do you attach it? The other buttons appear to be soldered onto the fob.

GoldHCH2003MT

I had to solder the extra button on my fobs. A soldering station with a fine tip and some help with a tweezer does the trick. I salvaged my buttons from a broken fob. I believe those buttons can be ordered new from Mouser or Digi-Key.

The first fob had a 4th button soldered in by me. The 2nd fob was in process of getting a 4th button installed and that is when I took the pictures.

CIVICF5

Awesome. Sorry to bombard you with questions. I'm just excited to get this done. I'm just not very knowledge when it comes to this stuff. I think this is my last question for now: Are you powering the truck actuator through an aftermarket alarm 12v like the OP specifies you use, or by some other way? I was under the impression that having an aftermarket alarm wouldn't allow you to use the stock key fobs anymore. My worry is by having an aftermarket alarm installed it would be a big process to make it compatible with the keyless entry.

GoldHCH2003MT

The black box that I build powers the trunk. It is tapped into the factory keyless receiver. My box interpret the commands and send a pulse to the relay inside the box that drives the actuator. I had to run a wire from the trunk latch to the box which is about 15 feet long.

I do not use an aftermarket alarm to pop my trunk. I believe stock fobs will not work with aftermarket alarm due to FCC rulings (frequencies, commands, rolling codes, etc).

Another option you can consider... rewire other door lock actuators to the driver's door. Then the passenger wire can be used for the trunk. This way you can press unlock button once to unlock ALL doors or press twice to pop the trunk. BUT... BUT... but there is a big problem. Whenever someone press unlock button on the door, it will unlock the doors AND pop open the trunk. So that is one of the many reasons why I went for the 4th button.

CIVICF5

Any chance for a future DIY on building a "black box"? Or any chance I could pay you to build one for me? Seems to me my best method is going the aftermarket alarm route. I just don't have the technical know-how necessary to do what you've done. Which is fine.

GoldHCH2003MT

I suppose I can do a DIY on a separate topic. I plan to use a CAD to make a better circuit board and can share the stuff with anyone else who are interested. My setup will work with U521 remote system. (Look at the receiver or back of keyless fob for the FCC ID title.) For different models, I have no guarantee that it will work right, but I can verify/modify if I have a sample of a working receiver and a fob with me.

Installing an alarm system would require know-hows, similar as my system. My system only have 5 wires to hook up while alarm have much more.

If you don't mind carrying an extra fob, you could go for the ready-to-go unit 1-channel system that can be found on Ebay. Just search for "1CH RF Waterproof Remote Receiver" and you'll find couple in there. Be sure it can do "momentary" output, not the "latched" ones. Those units should be easy enough for those who knows the basics. It would need 3 wires to hook up (+12V, ground and trunk).

CIVICF5

Appreciate all the advice/info, GoldHCH. You should definitely do a DIY on what you've done though. I think a lot of people would interested in adding a trunk-pop to the stock setup. I just ordered the new trunk latch and plan on going the aftermarket alarm route. I figured I might as well go that route since eventually I plan on installing a nice stereo system I'll want to protect.

BigRedEXcoupe

Yeahhh, I'd be willing to have your children. I've been thinking about this DIY for a long time, but have been hesitant to use an aftermarket fob. A DIY or you even building these to be plug-n-play, would be AWESOME!

CIVICF5

I've run into what could be a problem with 74851-S84-A41. It doesn't have a connection for the existing trunk light. I'm not sure if it's the same with 08E49-S84-100H. How am I suppose to tell the light that the trunk is open or closed if I can't use the existing connector?

LittleTicoy

CIVICF5, just following up with this problem you post. Were you able to correct the problem? I am getting ready to try this myself.