You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to start new topics, reply to conversations, privately message other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join civicforums.com today!
i am a reformed newb. i have already purchased the i\h\e in an attempt to be another white boy from the burbs ricer. and have since gone back to stock and didnt notice any power loss. so i dont want to make the same mistake twice. if i upgrade my handling and suspension for auto-x what is the order in which i should purchase items? what brands are the best? what brands give the biggest bang for the buck? and which ones should we stay away from?
step 1. Go to an autocross with the car AS IS. infact go to a dozen autocrosses with the car as is. Learn the cars limits, learn your limits. Learn to adjust your driving to maximise the cars limitations.
Step 2. go out and buy some good tires. the right tires will do more to reduce lap times then any other part. for the stock or Modified classes check out Kumho Victoracers, V700's or V710's (V710s are the gripiest) or get some Hoosier A3S04 or A3S05's. For the Street touring classes your looking at Falken Azenis RT-615's, Kimho MX, and a few others that just poped up this year. for wheels, in the Modifieds I'd run 14X7's or 14X8's(if I could get the right offset. for Street touring run 15X7's.
Step 3. Buy a set of Koni Yellows. and Learn to tune with them.
Autocross: Because Life is more fun on three wheels......
"I know Solo only comes one minute at a time, but what an intense, non-stop, fast-forward car control exercise minute it is. Sure, the velocity is higher in road racing, but inside the car it is slow-motion in comparison. In Solo, the turns come like machine-gun rounds. "
Randy Pobst
It's all a crap shoot really. I mean justin, spencer and I all have different parts and different skill levels. You just have to mod somewhat for yourself and somewhat for the class. If you want a part, do your research and see what is the best for you and what will help you get better times within the rules.
Not to mention the competition in each area greatly differs. Justin and Spencer are lucky to have 10-12 people in STS, whereas here we have least 25 each time. If I had known about autox before I started modding, I would have done a lot differently. Now I don't have the money to change shit around, but oh well.
I have powerslot slotted rotors, axxis ultimates, and superblue DOT4 fluid. I need a fuild change, but other than that they have worked great. Any good (brembo, powerstop, powerslot, stoptech, etc) slotted or blank rotor will do. As for pads, stay away from EBC. Hawk, PBR (axxis), porterfield, cobalt have known to be good pads. Axxis are probably the cheapest out of all them and perform just as well.
__________________ Life isnt a test drive, gotta live a little. (02fpcivic)
Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never Never EVER use the e-brake in a competitive driving event.
Learn how to drive with 2 feet. Don't ever do something that intentionally causes a loss of control.
Another tip is to go slow your first go to learn the course some people gun it and get lost their first go... it's worth it to go slow figure out where your going then progress in speed in your next go's
Another tip is to go slow your first go to learn the course some people gun it and get lost their first go... it's worth it to go slow figure out where your going then progress in speed in your next go's
My very first run I went slow and thought that I was just a really good driver until I finished with a time of 84 seconds, which was 24 seconds off of the leader in sts
It brings up the old saying "If you cant beat them Join them"... and considering an old civic can be had for less then $4,000.... theres really very little reason not to. personally, I'd like to find an 88 CRX si, Prep it for ST2, and go beat up on a bunch of miatas.
Autocross: Because Life is more fun on three wheels......
"I know Solo only comes one minute at a time, but what an intense, non-stop, fast-forward car control exercise minute it is. Sure, the velocity is higher in road racing, but inside the car it is slow-motion in comparison. In Solo, the turns come like machine-gun rounds. "
Randy Pobst
Yeah, it's pretty clear that if you want to be driving new(er) cars, the stock classes are the place to be since modern cars keep getting better and better as far as handling. Shoot, the mini cooper pretty much owns 2 stock classes. There are a few newer cars in STS that look competitive nationally (Subi RS2.5, Celica GT) but it will always be hard to beat lighter older cars with such an outstanding front suspension ie 89-90 Civics/CRXs. And forget about DSP or FSP, you better have a old small light car or lots of $ for a BMW!
As far as suspension, some might disagree with me but IMHO it's all about front grip, and you can't do our struts the same as the old double a-arm civics because of our horrible camber curve. I'm think that if you're gonna go lowered, you better have big front spring rates, big front bar, and big front camber, ie Boilermakers setup. The national level WRXs have the same strut challenges, and they seem to do all three. IMHO the back is much simpler after the front is set, just match up spring rates and use enough bar to lift the inside rear on hard corners, tweek rear toe, etc. I'm gonna work up to big camber and big bars but no big springs because I don't think I could live with the ride. But the cheap mod is driving, I gave up at least a second on that bugger U turn at the last race!
have you guys who auto X ever had trouble with your axles? My left axle was leaking and I was wondering if it was attributable to a driving style or whether it was just some bad luck. I'm at about 22k miles on the car.
With 22K, its probably a stroke of bad luck. You probably hit something and nicked the boot. I'm at 53K, Zzyzx has to be nearing 80 or 90 by now and I haven't heard anything out of him either. Autox, or any other activity that builds lots of heat and makes you turn a lot will probably wear you're outer CVs pre-maturely, but you should still make it quite a ways without issue.
