Alright, I'm posting this in the little corner because everyone else will think I'm insane, you guys already know I am.
Anyways... we've figured out already that CAIs and SRIs suck your low end up. They're wonderful for high RPMs, problem is you need basically from 3000 up. So, that leaves the stock box right? The restrictive thing with a lawn mower sized filter and huge resonator. Sure you can pull the resonator, but then you're sucking air from the back of the engine bay, the tiny filter is still there, and this isn't too advantageous is it? We're just screwed...
....Or maybe not.
Take a look... I test plopped this in last night.

This could solve most of the problems. First off, its enclosed, so hopefully it lets you keep your low end since it keeps air surrounding the filter. It takes a cone filter already, there are numerous high flow replacements. It fits neatly into the engine bay with the help of a new bracket, only problem being the battery needs to move, but the STS rules permit moving it to the trunk anyways. What it does do, is dump the mouth of the box right behind the inner corner of the headlight, with the possiblity of going straight down, rather than the back of the engine bay. This leaves the issue of getting the existing non-metal tube into the throttle, which some moron at Honda decided to flip up 90 degrees. Well, my busted Injen will work fine for this... cut the top elbow off and thats that. Where did I find this wonder-intake? Right under all our noses, the last place even I thought to look... under the hood of some other car. Its right out of an Integra. Now... I intend to insure that this thing will indeed fit right in. As of now, it looks like it would go no problem, its about the size of the battery, maybe a little wider. but the piping would fit right were the resonator goes, and I just need to stuff the Injen elbow on the end of it. I'll keep you guys in on this.
I do intend on testing this thing throughly. Maybe not on a dyno per say, but by timing it relatively accurately. I've figured out that my video camera can break itself down to about .07 sec intervals. So I intend on pointing it at the cluster, and getting as close as I can to timing out various RPM and speed intervals (I hope the difference is more than .07 sec) to see where and how much it makes a difference. I think just by the substantially larger size of the filter element, it would make a difference, even if it is a stock box (it is rigged up for a B18 and a big ol DOHC head, remember). Lets hope this pays off, or I'm wasting a lot of time and a bunch of money too....