DIY LED Gauge Cluster II - Page 4

boxcarracer · 03-02-2006

this is to a 2002 LX Coupe Replacing Gauge Bulbs But Diskreet says to get 1.5 but diagram says 1.4W

To remove this ad, register today for free or log in if already registered!

gearbox · 03-02-2006

well like i said before, you can't change any of those from the back. the cluster bulbs are clear but the face has a painted color coat. the other indicator lights are LEDS. the ones that you can change the bulb have green or blue color icons. so i fail to see how changing anything in the back will matter.

diskreet · 03-02-2006

You can change anything, but realistically I wouldn't do anything else even with a good electronics knowledge and a steady soldering hand. It is possible, with new leds, but I wouldn't do it.

About the bulbs, it says 1.4W which might mean that they are 1.4 watt bulbs. The wattage of anything tells you how much power it is using, or how many Joules per second it uses.

AlienX · 03-03-2006

they are all running at 12v.
Best way to connect the LEDs and maintain the dimmer control is to connect to the red for power, and red-black as a switched ground. These are both on the blue plug.
Enjoy.

hdave · 03-04-2006

so to make my cluster blue, i can jsut replace all the bulbs with blue led ones??

i thought i cant do that because of the coloured film or something

gearbox · 03-04-2006

well before you put leds in there, you have to clear the back of the gauge face with solvent (acetone and q-tip works well).

diskreet · 03-04-2006

exactly what gearbox said Read the diy I have posted

utahbmxer · 03-08-2006

Here is a pic of my Gauges. I also did the AC, Def buttons, still need to do the climate control knobs. Its still in the works. This is just Blue LEDs, I haven't removed filter from back of the face yet.

I removed the #74 socket piece and drilled a tiny hole in the back of it. I then cut the Neg side of the led short and connected it inside the socket. The positive lead goes out the hole and then I soldered the resistor on and then to the little copper connector (which contacts the circuit board). Here is a pic to help you visualize cause I didn't take a photo of it when I had it apart.

Still planning to:
-Replace weak LEDs with more intensity (I got 45deg not knowing they were 800mcd, BLAH)
-Remove filter/paint from rear of face
-Sand needles and maybe paint the back of them White for reflection
-Add white LEDs behind needles so they are bright!

diskreet · 03-08-2006

Looks good utahbmxer!

gearbox · 03-08-2006

i would stay away from using two different led colors in there. for the needles, take em apart and strip the paint off with 90% isopropyl alcohol. then paint only the bottom with white glass paint. you can use leds below the needle or use the light guides to put the leds from the side and they will work.

hdave · 03-08-2006

that looks really good utahbmxer

utahbmxer · 03-09-2006

Quote:

Originally Posted by gearbox

...you can use leds below the needle or use the light guides to put the leds from the side and they will work.

Ya, I was planning on using the light guides or something to "channel" the light into the needles so the white light doesn't show up in numbers, etc. I just want to go for a unique look. I haven't really opened the cluster to much, maybe if its possible I will solder some LEDs right to the board and position them behind the needles? I'll have to open it and look inside. I really do like the blue though, it goes well with my Receiver/Deck (Sony 5700, has 7 colors to choose from

).

gearbox · 03-09-2006

the problem is the needles are designed to light up with bulbs. if you try and use leds, it will be very dim even with white. you could do what i did and clear the needles with isopropyl alcohol and then paint the bottom white. then you can use leds to make it light up any color.

utahbmxer · 03-12-2006

Ok, so I think I did as much as I'm going to with my dash. A few days ago I posted a pic of my gauges, the needles hadn't been cleared yet and now they are and a I did all the climate controls. I also decided to leave the blueish filter on the back of the faces. I noticed it was thicker in certain areas to eliminate/soften the hotspots. Its still noticable, but I think its not as bad as it would be without the filter stuff.

Here is a pic of the light socket..

Day, lights off..

Day, lights on..

Night, close up..

Night, full dash..

I also found a fool proof way for getting the needles back into position. I got them perfect, first try! (Tach and speed, you're on your own as for the temp and fuel, which was expained earlier) refer to this pic..

1. After you have cleared your needles don't put them back on yet, put the cluster in the dash and plug it in.
2. Turn the igntion to ON, but don't start it.
3. If you look at the magenta mark in the pic, this is the true 0 mark. Its not marked on the face. Look at the orange line. Take the distance from the 20 to the 10 line and then go that same amount from the 10 past the printed 0. This is your True 0, but the needle can't actually go there cause the post (red) stops it.
4. Now that you have found where 0 is, carefully put the needle (green) on while making sure that you keep it lined up with the true 0.
5. Push it on and leave a little space between it and the face, making sure it moves freely.
6. Ok, now its correctly positioned. All you have to do now is turn the needle about 3/4 turn counter-clockwise and let it settle on the post. Do this for the other one as well, same concept.

Sorry I had so many pics.

I'm bored
Hope this helps!

gearbox · 03-12-2006

looks good to me. i've never had a needle problem so long as i put em back in the same position before turning the ignition. its supposed to have an auto calibrate which is the chattering sound the needle makes moving up and down for a few seconds.